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Front and rear rests:

 
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  #15  
Old 06-29-2014, 02:07 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 2,612
Re: Front and rear rests:

They make some good looking bags. Thanks.
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  #16  
Old 06-29-2014, 09:09 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Blackfoot, Idaho
Posts: 8,204
Re: Front and rear rests:

When I'm on the bench which is very very infrequently I use a simple, light and inexpensive orange Hoppe's. I made holes in the bench top to match the foot screws and set it with one of the 3 legs straight back.

I've had this thing for decades and won plenty of BR matches using it.

The secret is a proper bag on the pedestal for the shape of the forearm. Flat for flat and round for round. No side play. The rifle should slide freely. Very freely.

Keep the nearest sling stud at least an inch and a half, or better, from the rest. Behind the second stud works for me.

I use an eared rear bag with plenty of squeezeabiity for various elevation considerations.

However, a more solid rear bag is better. The more squeeshi the rear bag the more fliers can be expected, at least for me.

As I do all of my shooting prone I'm working on an adjustable, packable rear rest that is showing some promise.

Hope this helps….


Also had a visitor this morning.
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Front and rear rests:-img_0683.jpg  
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  #17  
Old 06-30-2014, 09:04 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 2,612
Re: Front and rear rests:

I've got a Hoppe's and never have felt all that good about it. Followed up looking at a change of bag for the front, it seems this old standby has been discontinued.

I've got good Bipod set ups, not every day I feel like getting up from ground level.

I hope that visitor doesn't work up a fondness for that jack!

Thanks
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  #18  
Old 07-02-2014, 02:07 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: greenwood, IN
Posts: 3,638
Re: Front and rear rests:

I built my own front rest, but there are many good ones out there. Bald Eagle is a very good one as well as Hart. Sinclair sells them off and on. You want one that uses the common thread size for the post. I didn't, and have regretted this for as long as I've used my own. The windage plate is critical, and Sinclair sells several different models. Then there are several options to aid your shooting position. Once again I used the wrong thread size here as well.

When shopping for a front rest, check the lock up very closely. If you can still move the threaded post, then avoid it. Some guys used the front rest without it be clamped tight. Or others clamp it after sighting in the target. If there's movement you won't hit much of anything. I clamp mine lightly, and can actually raise or lower it. On the otherone I still use, you can't raise or lower it with anykind of clamping pressure due to the thread fit (extremely tight)

If you have access to a lathe, you can build one fairly easily. The hardest part if drilling and tapping for the legs. I've built at least a half dozen for myself, and maybe twelve altogether. Some were very crude, and others too high tech. It's a learning process.
gary
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  #19  
Old 07-02-2014, 07:37 PM
scf scf is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Western Kentucky
Posts: 82
Re: Front and rear rests:

I recommend the SEB coaxial rests with a heavy Edgewood rear bag. The SEB rests are sold by Ernie Bishop who I believe is a sponsor on this site. They are great rests but pricey. I used one of the Caldwell coaxial rests for a while and it broke during an F class match, replaced it with another and it broke. Have never regretted getting the SEB.
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  #20  
Old 07-02-2014, 11:39 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 2,689
Re: Front and rear rests:

The NEO replaced the original SEB Rest with a number of improvements.
There is about a 11-13 month wait, once one gets on the waiting list.
No deposit to get on the list.
I also stock front and rear bags.
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  #21  
Old 07-03-2014, 07:51 PM
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lebanon County PA
Posts: 307
Re: Front and rear rests:

Folks at the range sometimes ask why there is a plain cloth shop rag wrapped around the bag on my Caldwell Rock Jr front rest. The rifle slides very smoothly on cloth, but not so much on leather. I always set up with the scope objective even with the bag for consistent support and clearance on the sling studs. With brakes, my rifles only recoil about half an inch, so the stud never catches. I always keep the rear bag ahead of the stud in the toe of the stock for the same reason.
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