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Cold weather lube.

 
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  #8  
Old 12-16-2004, 12:08 AM
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Location: Boise, Idaho
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Re: Cold weather lube.

I don't think the problem is in the return spring (unless it is weak - no way to really measure) since you can push it in and out without it feeling like it is 'gummed' up. I guess the cheapest way to tell would to borrow Dave's or order a replacement from Brownells when you order your gunstock tools (sure cycle unit is $155). They should have the springs listed in the back of the catalog in the replacement parts section.
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  #9  
Old 12-17-2004, 05:58 PM
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Re: Cold weather lube.

If the action fails to close when operated by hand, time for a new recoil spring. Or else, something is rubbing or jammed in there. Most SG have nothing in the path of the bolt so would lean more towards a weak spring.

Another issue could be rust in the location where the recoil spring lives. I have a Rem 878 which works very well until it gets wet, then the tube the spring lives in grows rust. A royal pain to clean out but once done, back to its loveable self.

Have you stripped it down and done a complete scrub?

Most modern powders burn cleanly that I doubt that is the issue, especially in factory shells. If an action will not cycle by hand, then I would go with spring or internal resistance.

Jerry
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  #10  
Old 12-17-2004, 06:58 PM
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Re: Cold weather lube.

Jerry. I will try to describe what I meant earlier about it not cycling by hand.

When I pull the bolt handle to the rear and let go the bolt will begin to move forward untill such time as it also begins to lift the shell lifter. This portion of the mechanisim is a rearward and upward force against the bolt carrier. It is this point that is the most slugish or the point where the bolt stops. A quick forward assist usually gets it over the hump and it then moves forward to lock up.

When the gun is freshly clean this problem is non existant. Previously when the gun was run without lube the problem crept back. Faster in the cold humid environment than in a warm dry climate. That is when I decided to try extra lube to see if it infact was powder residue build up. My though is along the lines of sanding metal or honing a knife with oil on the paper ot stone. It is there to keep the particulates "floating" to prevent the abrasive from clogging. That test is pending.

The gun is in very good condition otherwise. The recoil spring tube and piston are spotless and polished and lightly lubed. The internal mechanisim of the bolt assembly is loose untill lock up and the bolt head and lock up bar are hard chromed (which is what made me think of this option for the inside surface od the receiver body.

[ QUOTE ]
Most modern powders burn cleanly that I doubt that is the issue, especially in factory shells.

[/ QUOTE ]

This last time hunting I actually felt what seemed to be unburned powder hitting my face twice. We will have to keep an eye on that.
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  #11  
Old 12-18-2004, 12:08 PM
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Re: Cold weather lube.

[ QUOTE ]
Most modern powders burn cleanly that I doubt that is the issue, especially in factory shells.

[/ QUOTE ]

We are shooting steel waterfowl factory loads which seem to be the dirtiest burning shells on the face of the planet! Some of the shells are a few years old, and maybe that is the problem (my Benelli SBE is not quite as dirty with brand new shells). But after less than a 1/2 box of shells, the action shouldn't be this dirty.
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