The wood stocked Lazermark had the barrel channel opened slightly and the pressure point reinstalled. As I too also went the route of freefloating the barrel. It was a mistake on that buggywhip barrel.
I have no issue with the wood stock changing POI on me. When I spoke to a factory rep guy he told me they use flooruathane?? It is used to coat the lanes in bowling alleys. I used regular off the shelf uerathane to reseal the barrel channel. I did use his suggestion of using a light bulb in a big box to maintain a temp to 'bake it' on. It seemed to work for me.
Freebore, can you outline the process you used to reinstall the pressure point? Maybe this is a good topic to start as a separate thread so that some of the experienced smiths can pipe in as well. I often thought of trying to put it back in myself, but it really seems like a guessing game to determine where it should be located and how much pressure should be applied. I imagine that it would take a considerable amount of time and ammo to do it properly, with much work and rework to get you there.
First off let me say that I am by no means a 'smith. This is the knowledge and learning I have had with Weatherby's.
I had removed the pressure point as ealier stated trying to get better groups and it failed on my rifle. (I have only heard of it working for some guys never seen). I sent it back to factory for reinstalling the pressure point, they sent a test target to verify w/factory ammo. I do not shoot factory in anything I own. It would not shoot the bullet I wanted at the velocity I wanted at least to my standards <1/2 at 100 for 3 shot. (this is sorta backwards approach in someway). I removed the pressure point (after I measure the height of factory). I had a load that cronographed at the velocity I wanted with the standard deviation <15 fps. I then started to apply shims from that point on until I had it shooting. I kept just backed off of the rosewood tip. I took a torque wrench/shims to the range with me along with my loads until I got my groups. That Lazermark shoot 5/8" at 200 yrds w/ the first 2 rounds touching. It is the 115 Baltip over H1000 >3500fps.
I then took it to my bedding guy (he does all the bedding for the custom 'smiths around here as they don't have time and he is the best around here and cheap.) He knew what I was doing as I had previously talked to him about his Weatherby experience's. He miked the shims to aquire the height for the pressure point. He rebedded the rifle opened the channel slightly (no it does not have that tight metal to wood fit anymore but it still looks great as Davey is good) and it was perfect when I got it back and shot it. He may have taken barrel deflection readings during disassembly, I was not there. I would think he had to get the bedding correct to aquire the pressure I had on it. He has since done my lightweight and every time I got to the range and somebody sees my targets they want to buy my rifle, not for sale.
The lightweight has a pressure point too. If you look at the factory molded point it is sad to say the least. I had it rebed that rifle too with full contact point by filling in the flutes with clay.
My Lazermark load is tooo hot for the newer Lightweight which shoots the 115's at 3450 fps. The Lazermark is the older Japan manufactured w/24" barrel.
By the way the 100 Sierra's are just insane out of the old Lazermark w/Rl-22
I hope this can help in someway. I think that all you need is a little time and patience to make a Weatherby shoot. I learned this the hard way. They shoot better after they have many rounds thru them. One of the shooters at the club swore I was going to wear the barrel out on that Lazermark. I bought tha tot make one shot kills long ways and look good. I have achieved that with that rifle and I have not had to touch the zero on that thing in over 6 years. 2" high at 100 yards.
I've only killed deer and antelope with both. Maybe going to try the Lghtwght on caribou this year, like next week.
You guys had to go and play around with the barrel's pressure point, Huh?
Ummm, yeah, I did the same thing in my .257Wby Ultralight. It didn't like it one bit. Bullets sprayed erraticly up to 3" apart @ 100yds.
Here is how I put the pressure point back in. This procedure is not as good as Freebore's but it should get you back in the ballpark.
I heard somewhere that the Weatherby's use 14.5lbs of pressure pushing up from the fore end at appox. 1.5 to 2" back from the tip of the fore end.
I took an old grocery scale that my wife bought for decoration at the local good will store for $5.The scale is flat on top and the range is from 0 to 20lbs. I placed the barrel of my rifle on the scale. Held the buttstock under my armpit. Pulled down on the fore end until the scale registers 14.5lbs. Then a buddy can take a measurement of the deflection at the tip of the fore end. You will be measuring between the bottom channel in the fore end and the barrel.
I then bought some silly puddy (kid stuff, its cheap) and make a mote to contain some betting compound. Pour the bedding compound into the mold and let it dry.
The next day, file the hump down until you have the barrel sitting the previously measured distance away from the fore end channel. This may take some trial and error to get it just right.
In addition, after I got the hump to the right height I then make a bigger mote with the silly putty that encompassed the hump. Poured in more bedding compound and placed the action and barrel into the stock and tightend down the screws. This displaced the bedding compound aroud the hump area so the barrel rests on the hump. So now the barrel is captivated on all sides for about a 1.5" length in the area of the pressure hump. I'm not sure if this is the best way to go, but i figured with the synthetic stock, there will be no swelling or shrinkage of any kind so why not freeze the barrel and forend together to make things a tad more rigid. It seems to shoot ok. Ok, its not really frozen, as the barrel heats up it can move longitudenally.
However my new barrel will be slightly thicker and free floated.
Hey freebore, I see you have a good recipe: 115Btip with H1000 that shoots 3,500 fps. How about throwing us a bone letting us know how many grains your using.
The load for the 115 that is 3500 is for my Lazermark, which is a Japan manufatured. Weatherby had contracted previously with that country, I use to know the name of the company, hell getting old. When they moved back into the states and created the lightweight I knew I NEEDED another rifle that wasn't so fancy for the field (high gloss stock, beautiful wood, monte carlo check piece, rosewood tips, I think the deer and antelope see that and really want a closer look ya know.)
I was disappointed with the velocity of the Lightweight compared to the Lazermark and the Lazer is only a 24" barrel. I had expected the USA steel barrels to shoot better than what I can do with the Japanese Lazermark.
The load is 76 grains of H-1000 for my Lightweight with an OAL of 3.305. This is MAX in my rifle and what it want to shoot. I caution everyone to start from at least 10% less and work from there. My Lazermark load is above that charge same OAL and is over the top in my Lightweight. I did alot of OAL variety and this is what works in my rifles for this bullet.
The Weatherby's were designed with alot of velocity in mind, hence copious amount of 'Freebore' in the chambers. I think every Weatherby will shoot, they just require patience and more rounds down the tube to come in. All of a sudden they were there after 200+ rounds. Do not shoot more than 3 rounds at time in those light barrels and let them go COLD before starting to shoot again. I clean after every 15 rounds. They were designed as 1 shot rifles and none of my kills have been more than that with these rifles on deer and antelope.