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stripped allen screw removal

 
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  #15  
Old 04-18-2012, 05:11 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Great Falls, MT
Posts: 203
Re: stripped allen screw removal

If you have read this far you are interested in getting stuck screws and stuff out...I have a tool from snap-on that has been a God send to me. I wish I knew the name but it has a handle with an in-line 3/8 drive on it. You put a 3/8 driver bit on, put it on the part you need to loosen and hit it with a hammer, which causes it to turn about 1/8-1/4 turn. That way the max twist is at the exact time of max pressure/friction. It has loosened several stuck screws that were starting to strip for me. Every time I have a screw on a scope ring or base that feels like it is about to strip out I just get my tool and get it started, then it turns out fine with a screw driver. Hope this is helpful.
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  #16  
Old 04-19-2012, 07:08 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Talkeetna, Alaska
Posts: 201
Re: stripped allen screw removal

Another thing that you can try is to use a little bit of valve grinding compound on the allen wrench, the compound is abrasive and will help with the grip between the screw and the wrench.

Gus
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  #17  
Old 04-19-2012, 10:40 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
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Re: stripped allen screw removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedo View Post
Another thing that you can try is to use a little bit of valve grinding compound on the allen wrench, the compound is abrasive and will help with the grip between the screw and the wrench.

Gus

his is also a good thing to try. I have used it before many times with good results too.

Jeff
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  #18  
Old 04-19-2012, 10:55 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: S.E. Michigan
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Re: stripped allen screw removal

The machinist in me like Gary's way best. I'd improve on it with a left hand twist drill. Cut the relief steep and it will back out the offending SHCS with a little heat (as suggested 230 or so for blue threadlocker). The good old weller soldering iron is tits for localized heat. Short drill (screw machine length preferred) or shorter and slow speed. In lieu of a short drill, suck it up in the chuck as far as it will go and leave as little as possible protruding.

I believe the only quality SHCS's left are Hollo-Chrome and even they may be made offshore.

I'm making a part for my website store from 6 series aluminum with a stainless stud locked in it's center, locked with 272. Once it cures, the stud breaks off before it comes out. Good stuff..... Don't use it.
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  #19  
Old 04-20-2012, 12:31 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: greenwood, IN
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Re: stripped allen screw removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by SidecarFlip View Post
The machinist in me like Gary's way best. I'd improve on it with a left hand twist drill. Cut the relief steep and it will back out the offending SHCS with a little heat (as suggested 230 or so for blue threadlocker). The good old weller soldering iron is tits for localized heat. Short drill (screw machine length preferred) or shorter and slow speed. In lieu of a short drill, suck it up in the chuck as far as it will go and leave as little as possible protruding.

I believe the only quality SHCS's left are Hollo-Chrome and even they may be made offshore.

I'm making a part for my website store from 6 series aluminum with a stainless stud locked in it's center, locked with 272. Once it cures, the stud breaks off before it comes out. Good stuff..... Don't use it.
I used to buy cap screws by the pick up truck load till I found KARR. Bought nothing but grade eight stuff to use in machinery (your a lot of money ahead by doing this by the way). Best brands I found were Allen, Hollow Chrome, Unbrako, and Karr. The very best quality bolts money can buy are from Supertanium (Premeir), but you pay about 33% more for them. The Karr Grade eight+ are almost as good as the Supertanium. 90% of the bolts I bought were Karr's as they just didn't let go under very high stress aps (your car or truck probably is full of Karr bolts). Race cars use mostly Supertanium bolts in the suspension systems, and are usually required to use them. It's a true mil-spec bolt.

99% of all stainless steel bolts are made of 316 stainless steel. Some are still better than others, but the alloy will be the same. You want to make the thread attachment last forever, then try Loctite Blackmax. It makes the red stuff look like jello. (don't do it) Lastly never ever use an "easy out" to remove a broken screw!! NEVER!! Use a splined screw extractor instead.
gary
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  #20  
Old 04-20-2012, 01:32 PM
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Re: stripped allen screw removal

Gary...

We/you need to also clarify that the term 'allen screw' isn't correct. Allen is a trade name/manufactruer.

They are socket head cap screws (SHCS) which I refer to them as. Of course the head shape can be varied like button head or countersunk or flat head and others, just like regular bolts are.....

We used to purchase a lot of fasteners from Lake Erie Screw until they got their tit in a wringer over supplying remarked grade 2's (as 5-8) to the department of transportation for use in highway signage and lighting. After a couple standards sheared off the federal Highway Department tested the fasteners and LE got in big trouble......

Never used Black Max. 272 does the trick when bonding stainless studs in 6 series aluminum.

Sort of like the 'Crescent Wrench' misnomer.....
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  #21  
Old 04-21-2012, 12:51 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: greenwood, IN
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Re: stripped allen screw removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by SidecarFlip View Post
Gary...

We/you need to also clarify that the term 'allen screw' isn't correct. Allen is a trade name/manufactruer.

They are socket head cap screws (SHCS) which I refer to them as. Of course the head shape can be varied like button head or countersunk or flat head and others, just like regular bolts are.....

We used to purchase a lot of fasteners from Lake Erie Screw until they got their tit in a wringer over supplying remarked grade 2's (as 5-8) to the department of transportation for use in highway signage and lighting. After a couple standards sheared off the federal Highway Department tested the fasteners and LE got in big trouble......

Never used Black Max. 272 does the trick when bonding stainless studs in 6 series aluminum.

Sort of like the 'Crescent Wrench' misnomer.....
I don't really recommend Black Max as it's beyond forever!

The term Allen head goes back to who heald the original patents. Before that a socket head cap screw was often called a "Buttress headed cap screw" (yes I am that old!!) But you are correct in the terminology. I served an apprenticeship with old Germans and Dutchmen, and I kinda picked those names up from them. The second machine I rebuilt was a Baird Former that was pre WWI!! They guy I was working with took me up into theis area that had dozens of them, and some were almost new; yet they all looked the same. The only serious difference was that the real old ones had these odd ball looking cap screws that sorta looked like a modern day Torx headed screw. That was a Buttress screw. You had to watch out carefully has some of these machine were so old that they had the old 1/2" threads (1/2-12 or 1/2-11 tpi). One of the first things we did was to convert all the oddball threads over to the new standard threads. In today's times we still see a 1"-12 thread aong with a 1"14 thread, the new standard is the 12, but nobody wants to make the change. I can't ever recall seeing a 1"-12 thread in anything OEM. I've probably seen way too many odd balls threads in my lifetime, and a few just drove me batty. The worst stuff I ever ran across was with draw bars and chucking systems used on jap equipment. They like to use oddball pitch diameters with standard types of threads or even odd ball thread pitches with even odder pitch diameters (I had an M27 out of an Okuma that just about made me finish loosing the rest of my sanity)
gary
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