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Unread 05-03-2008, 09:00 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 2,422
To address a few things that I did not mention:

No - I am not using the neck expander on the decapping shaft, never do

I eventually lowered the die until it touched the shell holder and actually was able to go a bit farther when the press was under the pressure of sizing the case. No luck though, this is where the case really grew.

I don't have the ability to machine down the die or the shell holder. I could use a set of redding shellholders or I might send the die and a few fired cases to Redding and see what they suggest.

Thanks for all of your suggestions.
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Unread 05-03-2008, 12:45 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: California
Posts: 458
I didn't "machine down" the shell holder, I just ground the top side down incrementally on a wheel (checking with a micrometer to make sure it was even) until the case shoulder was pushed back far enough for the bolt to close easily on a chambered case.

I tried the Redding shell holder set, and the thinnest holder is still a mite too thick to do the job sufficiently, but maybe it would work for your case.

Last edited by LewisH; 05-03-2008 at 12:55 PM.
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Unread 05-03-2008, 11:06 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: on the rifle range in Utah
Posts: 2,704
Originally Posted by Varmint Hunter View Post
I could use a set of redding shellholders or I might send the die and a few fired cases to Redding and see what they suggest.

Thanks for all of your suggestions.

THe Redding shellholders don't fix this problem. In fact, they make it worse!! They go thicker which INCREASES headspace. Unfortunately, no one makes shellholders that are thinner which is what you need.

All you have to find is a machinist or someone with a lathe that can chuck up your die and cut off a few thou. Or someone with a drill press that can cut down your shellholder with a 1" cutter or somthing the right size.
Redding can do it but that might take awhile. Or maybe not since you are near their facility-relatively speaking!
Find it
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If it's not far, it's boring.
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Unread 05-04-2008, 03:52 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Alaska
Posts: 4,618
You could probably use a sanding disk to remove 0.010" off the bottom of your die. I know it sounds ugly but it really shouldn't hurt the functionality of your die. Heck, I bet you could even hand hold the die and drag the base across some medium to fine grit sand paper on a flat surface and remove 0.005" to 0.010". You shouldn't have to remove very much, unless your chamber has very tight headspace. It doesn't really matter if the base of your FL resizing die is exactly flat or not after the material is removed. You just need to remove enough to allow the shoulder to contact in the die to set your shoulder back 1 thousanth. I used a lathe because I had access to one but if I hadn't I would have removed a little from the base with a sanding disk.

Goodgrouper's right again on the Redding shellholder set. I have a set of those that I hadn't used and when I tried them I realized they were going the wrong way, increasing the headspace from case head to shoulder rather than decreasing it.
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Unread 05-05-2008, 06:02 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Potomac River
Posts: 5,070
A belt sander upside down works fine to grind the die. It does not matter if it is even because you are not going to bottom the die out on the shell holder. You are going to adjust the die and lock the ring.

This is a very common issue with belted magnum dies and trying to get the case to resize right above the belt.
The Smokin Fur Rifle Club
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Unread 05-05-2008, 06:26 PM
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Danville, PA
Posts: 1,094
I do this all the time to Redding Dies, it's very common. Most of my customers can't believe that you would have to modify a die, they think it should be right from Redding. So do I but, all most all of the Redding dies I've used have had to have the bottoms ground off to bump the shoulder back. I use my benchgrinder with the fine wheel. Take all the guts of the die off, meaasure th o.a.l. of the die and grind off the bottom while rotating the die. I start by removing about .010" - .015" Use some 400 grit paper to remove any burr just on the inside edge of the die. Work your die down slowly as you don't want to oversize the brass. .002" shoulder to base bump from what it measured as a fired case is enough. Also make sure the primer is below flush on the fired case so it's not giving you a false reading.
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