hunting knives

[älg]

What kind of knives do you use for hunting if skinning/gutting is involved?

My experience has been that more expensive stainless or alloy knives have a very nice edge that is retained much longer... but they lose it and are much harder to resharpen.

A cheaper non stainless knive will have to be sharpened more often, but even a simple stone will do the job and can be used in top condition at all times.....

[gonehuntingagain]

As far as I know it depends on the grade of stainless steel that you are working with. The 440 stainless is supposed to be easy to sharpen, whereas the ATS stainless is supposed to last a long time but be harder to sharpen. If you have a blade that is easy to sharpen, then just use a steel sharpener just to touch up the edge - this is all you really need in the field and it is very quick.

[sewwhat89]

For general use, get a Cold Steel Master Hunter from Midsouth or whoever. They run from $50-75 depending on where you find them. I spent two seasons processing animals for a local high-fenced deer lease when I was working on my undergrad degree in wildlife management and forestry. I only had to have it resharpened at the end of the seasons. I was able to clean 15-20 deer and several hogs between sharpenings. If you want another choice, get a Tree Brand or whatever name they go by now and sharpen with each use. The German steel in their blades can be sharpened to shave with ease and hold the edge very well.

[4ked Horn]

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My experience has been that more expensive stainless or alloy knives have a very nice edge that is retained much longer... but they lose it and are much harder to resharpen.


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Sorry but you cant have your cake and eat it too. If it holds an edge forever then it will be harder to sharpen and vice versa. You dont need a razor to field dress and skin an animal but you do need a sharp knife. I would opt for a knife that has a good rep for holding an edge but I always bring a medium stone with a handle for touching up if needed. The touch up should take less than 60 seconds. I know there are some that will say that you have to hold a perfect angle with the blade and that the knife must be able to fillet a flys wing. (I was that guy once) but the reality of it is you don't. You also dont need a BIG knife or a drop point. A 4" long blade and some good technique is all that is needed in these departments. You may find that you want a drop point or a gut hook to avoid popping the guts. I did. But if there is a nice bowie shape blade you like then get it. Just be careful. I know of a real easy way to gut a deer with the point of the knife up away from the stomach but that description is more than I want to type tonight. Maybe tomorrow. I opted for a "whitetail skinner" from Outdoor Edge I think. It is a T handle style with a huge belly on a 3" blade with a gut hook and textured rubber grip. I can hold it while using my whole hand to grab the deer or hide to move it around. When it seems to slow down I whip out my stone and whik whik whik whik whik. Then I am back in buisness.

[easton19]

The best knives I have found are the Knives of Alaska brand I have bought 8 of them they are expensive but i promise you ,you will not be disappointed chad

[kfrye]

If you can find someone locally who sells them, Cutco makes a quality knife (U.S. made) and they cover them with a forever guarantee. Their cheapest hunting knives come in a non-slip kraton handle with a drop or clip point. There double d edge takes a lot of abuse before it needs attention, and the straight edge is no slouch either.

When/if it really gets bad, ship them back for a resharpen. You could probably pick one up cheap on ebay too.

Ken

I've been a Schrade fan for years but, I've got a Track that's super. Got it from Track Knives in Whitefish, Montana in 1972; carbon steel. With it I got a sharpner I've never seen befor or since. It consisted of a flat fold over case with a wood block glued to it. A long bolt went thru it lenghtwise with a wingnut on one end. on each end was a short dowel. the bolt went thru both dowel's and the dowel's clamped down 400 grit wet and dry sand paper. They told me to drag the blade for sharpening then use the leather case for stropping. Thing worked great but has been lost for years. Once a year or so I'd take it back and they would re-sharpen it for me. According to them, the secrete to a fine edge was to polist it. The sharpener when folded was about 1/2", thick 1 1/2" wide, 3 1/2" long and had a belt loop sewed in.