Finished a rifle with Duracoat

Dave King · #1 06-20-2006, 08:08 PM

If you recall I recently took to refinishing some rifles. I did the Gun-Kote thing to a few and now I've tried Duracoat.

I like Duracoat better I believe, as least as far as application ease. I swapped some of my "junk" for a finishing kit and some OD Green finish and had a go at it. The "kit" was a EZ finish kit complete with an airbrush. I swapped for an extra can of propellant (air I think) so I'd have an extra.

The prep was easy and I opted to aluminum oxide blast the little Ruger 77/44 All-Weather first but Duracoat states its not required for the finish to stick. I also sprayed things off with the de-greaser for good luck and had a go at it!

The air brush was great for application as compared to the "rattle can" I used with the Gun-Kote so the air brush is the only option now for me.

I sat outside and painted on a calm but sunny day so the parts were warm before application and dried pretty quick post paint. I let the parts bask in the sun for a few hours and then moved them inside for the overnight cure. Next day I put the little rifle back together and it looks great... I'll get a picture soon!

Only things I can across were the airbrush uses a small paint jar and mixing the 12:1 paint to hardener was a little tricky as I didn't have a handy eye dropper to meter out such small quantities. (The instructions state to use measuring spoons.... Safety Tip Here::: Don't use your wife's measuring spoons for paint, this is a bad idea no question about it!) I wisely opted to use an old medicine dropper but it took some scrounging to find one and there were several long moments eyeing up those easy to find measuring spoons. The spray can of degreaser goes pretty quick and I needed to get a nylon parts brush to flick away some big chunks of grease in the threads. I would have liked to just spray away the grease but it'd take more than one can of degreaser.

The Duracoat is about "run" proof and I didn't get any (I had one with the Gun-Kote) but this may be due to using an air brush moreso than the product.

257speed · #2 06-20-2006, 08:52 PM

Dave, I 've been doing duracoat for a while now and agree it is a great finish. Consider building a hot box, mine is very simple and uses heat lamps to achieve 100deg. You dont want to go above that though. The hot box speeds cure time a great deal. Also, buy a big can of TCE from brownelss for degreasing. Much cheaper (allows you to use more w/out feeling bad) and dries without residue or film. If you use the duracoat camo templates, you'll find they leave a gummy residue when removed. Mineral spirits will take this off without harming the duracoat, even within a couple hours of spraying. Good luck, Jerry

royinidaho · #3 06-20-2006, 09:34 PM

It is said that experience is good as long as it is someone else's.

Thanks for yours, Dave.

Now I am definitely leaning towards duracoat when I graduate to the real stuff.

I've been dinking with an Aztec airbrush since Christmas. And am currently enrolled in drawing/art classes so I can learn to do something with it besides flat paint jobs.

gonehuntingagain · #4 06-20-2006, 10:58 PM

Here is a tip for paint measuring:

Go to the Veterinarian's office and see if you can get some syringes. the ones that I got are the kind that are a 2 piece version where the needle is a separate item that snaps on the tip of the syringe (since you don't need the needles). They come in different sizes and measure in cc's, so mixing for an airbrush suddenly becomes easier. They don't last too long though, the rubber inside isn't tolerant to paint thinner, so the rubber will swell and stick.

Dave King · #5 06-21-2006, 04:38 AM

I have syringes but was worried about the rubber on the plunger contaminating the hardener. I'll give them a try in the future. I get the syringes from the animal care section of the Tractor Supply store. (Lots of valuable stuff in that section, needles, syringes, shots for the dog -(save a trip to the vet), antibiotics for the critters, scalpels and blades (taxidermy and field caping the nose, eyes and ears).

257speed

You mention not to go above 100 degrees... What problems is any does it cause? I notice that LCW shows fast-cure oven temps over 100. What's your experience and what's best?

Dave King · #6 06-23-2006, 04:29 PM

Pictures

Big Pictures!

royinidaho · #7 06-23-2006, 11:17 PM

Can't imagine a place in MD with supplies as you describe. We have Cal Ranch Store, which is similar to your tractor supply.

Blackfoot's only "Men's Store." [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

Went to the vet today, got some syringes along with a $200+ bill for my "free" lab. How in the heck does an 80# 9mo old puppy get pancreas problems: [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]

Am impressed with your dura coat job. Looks top cabin.

I'll be doing an action w/their stainless steel color one of these first days. Also will be building my own curing oven. Intend to use an electrical element out of an old heater + thermostat and I suppose a Smoke Alarm knowing my initial attempts an anything [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]