Chronographed my loads oh no....

[Varmint Hunter]

Probably a silly question but why shoot the 210's at less than 3,000 ft/sec? You could do that with a 300WBY and you would get better loading density and probably lower ES.

In my limited experience with the 300 RUM it seems that consistency is improved with loads that are at, or near, maximum in current reloading manuals.

[jmason]

Jeremy- these are hypothetical charges and velocities, but something like this. Just use excel for SD.It's in the "more functions" if you click the weird "E". For ES subtract the highest shot in the string from the lowest shot in the string. Record your data, post it, and let us help you. This thread might help someone in the future.


Charge 1 (75gr retumbo)
2775, 2742, 2758
ES 33 fps
SD 16.5 FPS

Charge 2 (75.5gr retumbo)
2781, 2759, 2799
ES 40 fps
SD 20 FPS

Charge 3 (80gr retumbo)
2801, 2779, 2824
ES 45 fps
SD 22.5 FPS

Charge 4 (80.5gr retumbo)
2830, 2849, 2849
ES 19 fps
SD 10.96 FPS

Charge 5 (81gr retumbo)
2850, 2849, 2866
ES 17 fps
SD 9.53 FPS

Charge 6 (81.5gr retumbo) ****
2870, 2875, 2879
ES 9 fps
SD 4.5 FPS

Charge 7 (82gr retumbo) ****
2886, 2889, 2897
ES 11 fps
SD 5.68 FPS

Charge 8 (82.5gr retumbo)
2919, 2916, 2897
ES 22 fps
SD 11.93 FPS


Charge 9 (83gr retumbo)
2925, 2932, 2945
ES 20 fps
SD 10.14 FPS

Charge 10 (83.5gr retumbo)**STICKY BOLT****STOP****
2951, 2975, 2948
ES 27 fps
SD 14.79 FPS

[Shawn Carlock]

Once you have the charge dialed in as good as possible you might consider these steps to lower ES:

1. Sort bullets by baring surface measurement (although this is usually a waste of time with the Berger's as they are very consistant)
2. Be sure to dry graphite the inside of the neck before putting a bullet in as this helps with consistant neck tention and release.
3. Measure your OAL with a bullet comparitor and use a micrometer seater to make them all the same length based on the foreward baring surface of the bullet.
4. Try different primers, simply changing primers has almost cut ES in half for me in the past.

If you can get low teens or single digits for ES, your in the game.

[milanuk]

Originally Posted by Shawn Carlock

2. Be sure to dry graphite the inside of the neck before putting a bullet in as this helps with consistent neck tension and release.

Hi Shawn,

I've heard of people doing something similar to this on a few occasions... I'll admit, I'm curious but have never got around to trying it. Would you mind expanding on your methods for this? I have a picture in my head of using some Lock-Eze or other fine dry graphite lube with a Q-tip and lightly swabbing the inside of the neck, but figured maybe I should ask first and avoid screwing it up ;)

Thanks,

Monte

[A/C Guy]

Originally Posted by JEREMY logan

.. Here is what I come up with average muzzle velocity was 2964 E.S. 53.64 S.D. 16.27 ...

That is not really bad. You could try a heavier crimp, more neck tension could reduce the E.S. and S.D.. Also try seating the bullet closer to the lands. Get under .030 off the lands and see how those numbers change.

You have a very good starting point with your existing load.

[A/C Guy]

Probably a silly question but why shoot the 210's at less than 3,000 ft/sec?

He said he just got a chronograph, so obviously, he did not know he was pushing "only" 2964 fps and not 3000+

Hi shawn and thanks everyone for the info. I've been away from the computer today I took a side job replacing someones roof (shingles) man thats real work ....I miss the office shawn could you tell me exactly what kind of dry graphite you use and how you apply it ? Thanks again everyone for the help as soon as I get a good load and go out to shoot some long range targets i'll post them I figure if yall are nice enough to help me out you should atleast see the end results . I'll post the bad shots to