Bedding a 700 LSS laminated stock?

[Varmint Hunter]

I recently bought a new Rem 700 LSS (300RUM) with the gray laminated stock. When I pulled the barreled action I expected to see some bedding but there was none.

Is it sufficient to glass bed the action w/o using pillars in a wood laminate stock or is it better to play it safe and pillar bed and glass bed?

SECOND QUESTION - The stock is not very wide in the forearm. Does anyone know what is the largest contour barrel that can be reasonably put into the factory laminated stock with some inletting of the barrel channel?

[Bart B]

One doesn't need to pillar bed wood stocks; hard cored synthetic stocks, either. Period.

[Coyboy]

Varmit Hunter, I have one in 7mm rem. I glass bedded it without pillars and had good results. The laminated stocks seem to be denser then regular walnut. Just be careful not to slop cleaners and oils on the stock and it will remain solid.

I took the dremel tool to the barrel channel to give it a generous free float, then protected the exposed wood with some clear coat. Actually I clearcoated the entire stock. This took away the shine and gave it a nice satin finish.

I would think I could put a #6 contour on that stock and not have any problems.

[MagMan]

Mine is going to be the recipient of a #7 Lilja, I've been told it will fit.

[ELZWizz68]

VH,

I have a Tikka M695 wood stocked 25-06 - I have talked to Kirby Allen about getting it bedded (sorry I haven't got it to you yet 50 driver!) and have talked to a LOT of gunsmiths and BR friends of mine - the consensus is that the stock should be pillared and then skim bedded over the pillars to get the action tight in the inlet, IF it isn't a shooter already. I have heard of rifles that are not bedded that shoot well, and rifles that are purposely not bedded at the receiver (i.e. rifles with barrel blocks) but you aren't looking at this application.

Regarding your second question, you probably already know this, but to review - in my research, the critical things in a wood stock are forend flex and the barrel channel width at the top of the barrel channel - i.e flex as in you removed too much wood and the forend moves when rested on something - usually touching the barrel, and the width issue is the flat space on either side of the barrel at the barrel channel - I have seen a Sako with a larger barrel where the sides of the barrel channel had narrowed to a line instead of a flat plane, no bueno. The lamination should give you some better strength than the regular wood, I would surmise, but this is a call for an experienced gunsmith that does this kind of work! I do know that the LSS is a bigger stock, so that's good new!

I would do a Search function on the forums for LSS +barrel. Not really answering yours questions, but some info to think about if not already known.

EZ

[Varmint Hunter]

Coyboy

[ QUOTE ]
I took the dremel tool to the barrel channel to give it a generous free float, then protected the exposed wood with some clear coat. Actually I clearcoated the entire stock. This took away the shine and gave it a nice satin finish.

[/ QUOTE ]

Did your 7mm mag have a barrel pad in the forearm originally? If so, did you shoot it with and without the pad for comparison purposes?

Did you put the clear coat right on the top of the factory high gloss without any prep of the original finish? The laminated stock is what I wanted but the super high gloss was a surprise. I was thinking of hitting it with steel wool to break the sheen. Sounds like you may have a better alternative.

[remingtonman_25_06]

Dont know a thing about bedding, but have talked to kirby about my particular 300 RUM LSS about rebarreling. He said the factory stock will fit up to a #7 lilja, pretty much a sendero contour.