Originally Posted by HARPERC
It doesn't matter if the rest of them are great if you get the one that sucks. Now It's down to what you invest (time and money) proving yeah it sucks. Have you decided what you're going to do with it? Are the first 2 on your aim point every time for me personally 5 shot groups on a hunting rifle is not necessary on a pure hunting rifle. Assuming you're still trying to "fix it" how many rounds have been down it? Which brand/style bullets have you tried? Does it have a muzzle break? If you're just venting-yeah getting a lemon really takes the joy out of the sport.
The aim point is consistent to about 1/3 inch. Grouping is intermittent. Firs and third shots are close. Firs and second shots are close with a big flyer on the third and fourth is decent. Just when you think your onto something , you get a couple flyers. It has a fairly loose chamber. No outrageous signs of pressure with hot loads but lighter load development tested as well. It's true a hunting rifle is not made to be shot with frequency and expect accuracy but my expectations are 3 shots in 1 inch from a cold barrel and the next two within about 1.5 inches. The first three have to have repeatable POA every time of it's junk.
Nosler Accubonds (225 & 250 gr.). Barnes TTSX 225's. Sierra BTHP Match 250's. Barnes 265 gr LRX. Berger 250's on the way and 300's sitting on the bench. Seating depths from .010 to .090 jump tested and factory recommended seating depth extensively tested. Not interested in lighter bullets than 225 grains. Full work ups with H-4350, H-4831, RL-19, and Hybrid 100V on the bench for testing. Cases all neck sized & turned, flash holes de-burred. Bullets average .002 to .003 runout. Barrel cleaned after each range trip and meticulous break in cleaning. About 200+ rounds fired. Everything is a 5 shot group but the barrel cooled after each 3 shots. Action bedded by smith and lugs checked for contact (90 %). Action screws torgued to 35 (factory recommended) and then to 45 (dude at the factory recommended). Factory trigger set light. Action screws also torque tuned.
Rings - EGW HD lapped (torqued). Base - EGW HD (torqued). Scope - SWFA 5x20 SS / tested reliable. All testing from bench w/ sandbags.
Probably a couple of things I forgot to mention.
Anyone interested in buying it can PM me. Beyond the cost of the components is my time and the value of my time far exceeds the component cost of the rifle (seriously). I will happily sell this rifle for the component cost less wear plus
my time which will easily exceed the cost of a new rifle. As you can see, I know the value of my time. This may be well worth the price to anyone who wants to twist a screw or work up a load and show me that I was just belly aching (which I will humbly acknowledge should that be the case). Until then, I'll keep working on it until it works. For now however, you can get something just as good for about half the price.
If anyone has any "tuning" suggestions, I would appreciate it.