What Brake?

[tweek1142]

Does anyone have info on what brake i should install on my factory Remington 300 WSM? these are the ones im looking at:

Hart Muzzle Brake
Muscle Brake
Painkiller Muscle Brake

what one would be the best at recoil reduction but more importantly keeping debris from blowing all over when shooting in the prone postion.

Also my Dad has a Hart Brake on his. It reduces the recoil off his 300 WSM to 243 recoil. but i throws A LOT of debris when in Prone position. So i have experience with the Hart and don't want that. He is also wondering if he could order either a Muscle Brake or Painkiller Brake and just screw it onto the current threads he has from his Hart Brake or will he have to have his rifle sent in for re thread and install.

Thanks for all the info

[yorke-1]

The Muscle Brake or the Painkiller would probably be your best bet. I've been very impressed with the Muscle Brake. I have one on a rifle and one on a SP. The rifle is a 375 BME shooting the 350gr Sierra Mk at 3000fps. It feels like a 308/30-06. The SP is a Savage Striker in 338/375 Ruger (often called the 338 Campfire). It's hard to come up with a comparable pistol to compare recoil to, but it's very manageable shooting 250gr Sierra Mks at 2650.
338/375 Ruger Savage Striker

I don't have any first hand experience with the Painkiller Brake, but I imagine it's just as effective as the Muscle Brake while offering the same advantages as the other side discharge brakes.

With any of the side discharge brakes, you will most likely need to have a smith "time" the brake to the rifle so that the ports are properly positioned.

Andrew

[trebark]

The brake that will likely throw the least amount of debris is the Muscle Brake. This is because the port closest to the shooter is at a 90* angle. This may deflect some of the gases being thrown back in your direction from the two ports in front (which are angled back towards the shooter).

In terms of recoil reduction, you want to do your best not to remove too much material when fitting it to your barrel.

Tweek is correct in that one of these other brakes may screw right on to your Dad's rifle if the thread pitch matches, but it will need to be 'timed' so that when it is screwed down tight, the ports are in the proper position.

[jamaro]

Don't laugh but.... I have a .300 win mag with a blued barrel... Is there anyway of getting the muscle break blued? I think it would just look goofy...

thanks
J-

[tweek1142]

if the thread depth is the same (amount of threads are equal from break to break) then the timing should be ok correct?

Does anyone know what the tpi is on a hart break?

thanks again

[IdahoCTD]

If you don't have a thread gauge you can set a pair of calipers to 1/4" or 1/2" depending on how many threads you have. Set it on the threads and count how many you have. If it's 6 in 1/4" then it's 24tpi, 7 is 28tpi, and 8 is 32tpi. The amount of threads doesn't matter for timing. It's where in the rotation the threads start versus where the shoulder is that the brake stops against.

[Erik Kiser]

The odds of just threading a brake on and it being timed right is pretty slim. You'll need a gunsmith to do the install and bore the brake to the right size for your caliber