OK Im new to this whole chrono stuff
I took my new chrono out for a fun day at the range testing and chronoing loads
my question is if you have a load that shoots reall good Sub moa out to 1000 yards
but the velocity spread is large 50 fps or larger what can be done to try to tighten this up or should a guy just not worry about
Maybee I should not have added a chrono to the mix one more thing to mess with my extremly cloudy head.
FWIW, in my opinion; if you're perfectly satisfied with sub moa at 1000 yds (as I believe most would be) then don't worry about it. Especially if the groups are minimum vertical spread.
I've never put a whole lot of faith in chrono's, especially the cheaper ones. I would rather develop a tight load that shoots minimum vertical at long range and then chronograph to get an average velocity. Rather than base my load off the chrono's data.........Just the way I've done it.
I suppose that maybe some of the high dollar precision units might be useful for load development, but I've never had one of those.
The most accurate factory barrel rifle I ever laid my hands on was my old 220 Swift Ruger 77. It shot 1/2 minute to 700 yds on calm days and all my load development was without a chrono. In fact, I had nearly 4000 rounds through the gun before I even bought a chrono.
I am sure some others rely on chrono data and aren't satisfied unless they get small ES and SD #'s.
sounds like you do your loads just like we allways have . The Chrono is a good one i believe its a CED M2
Got it just to know how fast our loads are going for use in Ballistic calculatrrs insteed of guess.
but now it has us second guess good loads
With all that said I am not changing loadsv
just wondering if there was someting minor you could do to improve things
One thing thats real simple and often overlooked is the distance the chrono is to the muzzle.
Putting it at least 10' away (preferably 12-15') supposedly gives more accurate readings.
I've also read that varying light conditions will give variable readings (partly cloudy days when it's sunny one shot, cloudy the next).
I've also read that the chrono need to be very near level with gravity..?
That's all I can think of without changing primers, or annealing necks, trying different powders, seating depths, ect.
I always uniform pockets, clean pockets, and de'burr flash holes. I also sort cases for neck thickness and weight. I weigh each powder charge to within .05 grns (according to my scale) and neck size as much as possible. I also trim to uniform lengths and fireform cases in gun before sorting by weight..............sound similar to what you all do?
I unifrom pockets and clean pockets but I do not sort anything
I use a digital scale and it only goes do to 0.1 but I do not take anythin execpt exactly what im looking for (if im looking for 64 grs I wont use 63.9 or 64.1) I used a very small home made spoon to remove excess and a trickle to add some.
dont really want to change componants
I might play with Adding more powder in small increaments and mess with the lenghts alittle
How much do you think you gain by deburring the flash holes?
I can't honestly say, because I've always just done it
My great uncle was a fairly accomplished benchrest shooter/competitor and taught me how to precision handload (compared to standard reload) a little over 20 years ago. I've used those methods and never strayed for all this time............Oh, one other thing; I also nylon brush the necks inside and fine steel wool the outside to remove the soot/carbon. Just another thing he did, but I doubt it affects accuracy on hunting calibers and chambers enough to ever notice. Flash hole de-burring would probably be more noticeable.