Here's an add, Jay sent me this today and it looks nice, I'll probably have Dave make one of these insted. It would be easier to set the barrel back down the road if needed. Stll curious on how you think the other setup would shoot though.
Jay pointed out that stress would be introduced because cooling wasn't even around the barrel etc. Here's some pics he sent me of the blocks he makes.
Here's what he said about them;
Barrel blocks for 1.45 dia. barrels. 2" wide, 6", 9" and 10"
length, 5/16" cross bolts, 1/4" tapped holes in the bottom, hole reamed through the block. The wall thickness and width of the two 45 deg. bevels and the top surface are all the same. 6061-T6 aluminum material.
You have to have a couple of holes for the trigger guard and I have pillars below the alum. block to accept socket head cap screws.
The McMillans are so user friendly, cheap if you consider that
they are finished and work great. This stock has some steel bars in
the rear of the stock for weight. Total is about 16.5#, used for 1000
yard BR. This year I switched from a 1:8" twist to a 1:9" twist,
Lilja HV profile, 6.5-284 cal. Shot it in six matches, this year, and
had two 7" groups of 10 shots at 1k.
On the 16.5# gun I just use tall bases and high rings. The bases are just some that I made up, like a two story affair, used some homemade parts and some Leu. parts. You can get a lot of "tilt" by using Burris Signature rings with the nylon inserts. Many of us use those exclusively on our rifles, now. They hold better than metal to metal and allow you to change inserts for course adjustment when mounting scopes. On the Heavy guns, I just mill a bar with 20 to 30 min. of angle tilt and adapte a Leu. base to the bar. For big Nesika and BAT actions I mill a Weaver style base and mill the underside with the correct radius to match the receiver, have put as much as 1 deg. of tilt on them.
I'll send more info later.
[ 02-01-2003: Message edited by: Brent ]