Here's a pic of a 700 trigger I just made a solid piece, screwing the connector to the trigger piece. You can epoxy the piece on but I chose to do both for added peace of mind. This makes the Remington trigger safe as any other solid trigger now. If you don't "carefully" grind the extra 5 degree angle off and make it 90 degrees as in the pic, in a "near" zero overtravel situation the sear can drop (brake) over the connector freely but not fire and be held up by this angle on the connector. If you just epoxy it on and leave the angle there it can brake the epoxy bond as it tries to throw the connector out of the way as the sear drops. You should have enough clearance between the sear and the connector when the firing pin is in the dropped (fired) position that there's no psi between the two or they could chip etc. Sear engaugement should be enough that slamming the bolt closed SEVERAL, SEVERAL TIMES will not alow the firing pin to fall EVER, as well as pulling the trigger when it's on safety then flipping the safety off, dropping the butt on the floor, opening the bolt or anything! If you get it down to below 1.5 lbs pull you will be doing great, "most" are only RELIABLE between 2-3 lbs because they just aren't polished on the pins and bores, and built as tight as other aftermarket triggers. They can be lightened up substantially though, just be carefull you don't lighten the return spring too much. Cycling the safety and then the trigger when it's cocked can change the pull weight when it's ultimately fired verses not messing with it, so do both and make sure it's reliable both ways. [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img]
The sear sets on the connector and the trigger return spring needs to have enough force on it to return it against the trigger lever "and" under the sear as it is cocked, if it doesn't you can get into trouble by it not cocking at all or firing on bolt closing (FBC), firing on bolt opening (FBO), or firing when safety released (FSR).
The dangerous problem with Remington triggers is that dust or debree can get inbetween the trigger and the connector (hard to do but it can happen and does) and reduce the sear engaugement enough for it to cause one of the unsafe malfunctions mentioned above. Making it solid eliminates this area crap can get between! If you don't do this or replace it with any other solid aftermarket trigger, be sure to keep enough tension on the return spring until you can!! None of the aftermarket triggers use this connector and are solid and safe.
There's only three screws and three pieces so it's pretty simple to adjust. [img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img] Good luck.