Extraction Sako style machined from solid bar stock
Receiver Length and Width 1.3'' X 8.75''
Ejection Retractable tab ejector machined from solid bar
Trigger Fully adjustable Single stage
Trigger GuardMachined aluminum
Grip Cap None
Metal Finish Matte
Cheek Piece Roll Over
Checkering Pattern 2-panel on grip
Butt Pad Pachmayr rubber
Sling Swivels std screw-in
Length of Pull 13.75''
Avg. Weight 7.75 lbs.
This Cooper isn't an exact apples to apples comparison but, it has all the core qualities I would get with a true custom rifle. For another ~$1,000 I could tweak a few things here and there but, it wouldn't really change what's at the core of this rifle.
Heck, the McMillan Hunters Edge stock is a third of the price of this rifle. The action would be over half the price of this rifle when you add a trigger, recoil lug, etc. Regarding the barrel, as long as it is a premium match barrel, who turned and lapped it isn't that critical to me ... Hart, Krieger, Lilja, Boughton, etc. would all suit me just fine.
A cooper's a solid investment..
Just cut a check and be done with it. You'll have a standardized gun that Cooper has worked the bugs out of.
This is actually just opposite of a 'custom' (that YOU have to work the bugs out of).
The same could be said for something like a GA Precision in 308, but they are too heavy for real use in many areas. Such is the case with most 'customs'..
And if you put together a higher quality custom, there is no tellin how it will perform, no matter how much you spend.
Coopers hold their value because they are built 'good enough', and don't have to be modified at all.
The only thing to watch out for with Coopers, is twist rate. For some cartridges, they've chosen twists too slow for long range bullets.
Custom guns built by the "right" person with the right components will hold it's value very well but you pay more and the market is much smaller for resale. All of that being said I build all of mine from the ground up. That way I know exactly what I am getting. Am going get one next weekend (a very sexy mannlicher in 6.5x55 on a true exhibition stick of English)! Currently have more 3 in process including a barreled action I got from Ken Howell, a Hagan and a old Sako Forrester being redone with a 3 position safety in 257 Roberts Improved, checkered bolt in a piece of Russian Circassia or a piece of English I have -- still thinking about that one .
For example, on my wood stocked rust blued rifles Chuck Grace builds all of those and Speedy or one of his select students do the rest including my competition rifles. Works for me and I am an accuracy fanatic and will accept nothing less than perfect. Be careful who you choose to perform your build – some smiths are good and others are blacksmiths!
The Truth Is Not Always Good For Business!!
I don't think I would go heavier then 160gr. The 160gr hunting rounds seem to work pretty well at 1x10 from what I have read. So, other then not being able to run the 175gr VLD's, am I missing anything? My barrel will be between 22 and 24 inches and a #3 contour so, obviously this won't be a precision bench rifle for long strings at long distance.
So if your confident the desired bullets will stabilize, then you can focus on things like wood grade, rings(get the Talley one-piece base/rings), and dies.
I don't have any experience in 28cal. My caution with twist stems from their 22 & 24cals at 1:14. This leaves only light/flatbase, short range bullet potential.
Of course they do this to increase probability of meeting their 1/2moa at 100yd guarantee, and their guns will do that. Pay no attention to the test group card attached to the gun. It's just merchandising(deceptive), and not actually a 100yd group at all.
But I watched my son nail a woodchuck at 512yds a few days ago using his M21 in 223rem.
This was a single cold barrel shot, representing as much as anyone could expect from a 50gr Blitzking, and a bipod in the dirt. He got 6 over a couple days >380yds, with no missed shots. So the gun will shoot.
Yours will to