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Savage / Shilen questions

 
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  #8  
Old 10-13-2010, 12:01 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: NC mountains
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Re: Savage / Shilen questions

Thank you guys for all of the good instruction. I may just have to give it a go!
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  #9  
Old 10-13-2010, 08:00 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: North Western CO
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Re: Savage / Shilen questions

I can't ell from the original post if you allready have the rifle to be changed, but if it were me, I'd go with a model 112 or 110, skip the accu stock. It hasn't proved to be any better in my rifles than tupperware. My preference is laminate, for recoil and appearance.
The barrel channel will need more than a little work in the 111 fncs.
All the other info looks good.
Have fun, then have a blast!
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  #10  
Old 10-14-2010, 06:37 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: NC mountains
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Re: Savage / Shilen questions

I don't already have the rifle. I would go with an aftermarket stock in the 110, but I think that would put me over budget. Can anybody else testify for or against the accustock?
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  #11  
Old 10-15-2010, 07:31 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2010
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Re: Savage / Shilen questions

I have a 112 BVSS in 7 mm rem mag ( 26" fluted heavy barrel) and a 11 FCNS in 270. I would go with the laminate stock if you can find it! The stock on the 11 FCNS flexes so much in the fore arm that it is not really a good sand bag gun. My 112 BVSS is pretty rare I guess, they don't sell the long action lam stock guns anymore but you can get an aftermarket stock or just buy an old wood one and add to it (if you aren't that concerned with looks). I have had the barrel on and off of my 7 mm Mag several times. I have also recently had a Savage 110 (old style) that I changed barrels on quite a bit. I had a 30.06 barrel and a .308 barrel for that rifle and swapping them out was about a 1/2 hour job. Buy the "go" headspace gauge, it is the minimum chamber / headspace length. I used a Forster from Midway, about $23.

I have an old pipe vise I bought on eBay and some wooden blocks I made out of a maple butcher block that disintegrated in the weather out on the patio.. I drilled a 3/4" hole through a 2" x 2" chunk about 3" long using a boring bit to get a clean hole. Then cut it in half with your favorite saw. I made some blocks with a paddle bit and they worked okay too. I bought a rosin bag at Sports Authority for $3. A larger bench vise will hold the blocks just fine, you just have to point the barrel off at and angle.

The previous poster is right about using a hammer to loosen the barrel nut, sorta... Use a rubber mallet or wooden block and your wrench and barrel nut will last longer. I used a barrel wrench from Midway too. It works fine. Hold the wrench so there is no slack in the direction you will be turning and give it a sharp rap. They aren't that tight. The barrel will unscrew easily.

Setting the barrel takes some practice. You will be completely safe following the method described in the previous post.

I "mess" with it a few times at the tightening part of the operation. I found on my stainless gun that screwing the barrel down onto the gauge and just tightening the nut left the bolt a little loose when closed on the gauge. I hand snug the barrel down on the gauge, un-latch the bolt, and tighten the barrel about 1/16 of a turn tighter. I snug the barrel nut down by just patting the barrel wrench with the palm of my hand and then close the bolt again. I saw a pretty good .avi online somewhere about truing up a Rem. action and the guy was pretty proud when he could "just" close the bolt. I do it by feel and it takes a few tries to get it just right LOL. It is not tight but there is no play.

It is something you should learn to do IMO! Don't trust the barrel fit. If you are going to reload rimmed rounds you will want to know all about the chamber headspaceing on your rifle. Remember that the rim is what the gauge is bottoming on. you need to know the length of the chamber AFTER the rim to really reload well and safely. Fire a factory round or a freshly loaded new case. Measure the case length with a case length gauge. Re-size 2-3 thou. less when reloading.

I take my barrel off when I want to really clean it well. The vise holds it so much easier than trying to hold the whole rifle...
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  #12  
Old 10-15-2010, 09:48 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
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Re: Savage / Shilen questions

Thank you for all of the good advice guys. Now, does anyone know if a model 111 fcns stock will accept the shillen one inch bull barrel without doing too much work on the accustock?
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  #13  
Old 10-16-2010, 05:40 AM
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Re: Savage / Shilen questions

judging from the laminated stock I put a varmint barrel in, Yes.
Stocky and Boyds both have tutorial pages you can look at to see. not specific to the accustock but to barrel contour.
That Bull is almost an inch thick all the way to the end. the way my accustock is set up, i'd be taking about a 1/4 all the way around.
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  #14  
Old 10-16-2010, 09:05 AM
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Re: Savage / Shilen questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by Axtell3 View Post
judging from the laminated stock I put a varmint barrel in, Yes.
Stocky and Boyds both have tutorial pages you can look at to see. not specific to the accustock but to barrel contour.
That Bull is almost an inch thick all the way to the end. the way my accustock is set up, i'd be taking about a 1/4 all the way around.
So you are saying that the bull barrel with the accustock will not work?
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