Savage 111 LRH 338 Lapua

North61 · #1 01-02-2012, 11:11 AM

Waiting for my dies....have shot two groups with cleaning between rounds of factory Hornady. It's doing about .8 MOA at 100 yards. The rifle kicks like a pussy cat, the brake works very well as does the accu-trigger.

I have hopes that reloading will bring it down to .05 MOA at long ranges. Looks like a good caribou rig. Going to play with 250 Sierra Game Kings, 265 Barnes TTSX and 300 Berger Hybrids. I also have some 160TTSX's for giggles.

Any thoughts on some good powders to start with. I have RL19 and 22, IMR7828, H1000 and H4831 in stock. Even have an old can of H870 around here somewhere. The expansion ratio of a 338 Lapua isn't that out of wack and I wonder if medium powders like RL 19 or maybe even H414, H4350 might not work quite well with 250 grain bullets and under,

SidecarFlip · #2 01-04-2012, 08:07 AM

I'd stick with the slow burners like H1000 or Retumbo. You might wind up with overpressure and decreased case life with faster powders.

Hornady recommends H1000 as the median powder for reloading in the recioe book.

Thats what I'm using with Hornady projectiles or Game Kings.

Start hot rodding the cartridge and the case mouth will go first. This brass is way too expensive to not reload numerous times. I'll be annealing case mouths as well......

Nice piece by the way. I have one as well. I'm not real fond of the matte finished barrel (it's a dirt, fingerprint, anything catcher)...other than that small detraction (and it's weight of course), it's a fine firearm for a reasonable price.

It even comes with a 20MoA Picatinny rail standard....

On factory loads, stay away from the PPU stuff. I had no ignition issues with PPU already (see other thread) and I have no confidence in their ammunition plus I'm not too happy with Cabelas or the importer. Neither has stepped up to the plate on what appears to be inferior ammunition.....

Magnumitis · #3 01-17-2012, 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SidecarFlip

It even comes with a 20MoA Picatinny rail standard....

When did you buy yours? I have heard elsewhere that the rails are 0 moa. Just wondering if they started with 0 and are now doing 20 or vice versa.

North61 · #4 01-17-2012, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elkoholic307

When did you buy yours? I have heard elsewhere that the rails are 0 moa. Just wondering if they started with 0 and are now doing 20 or vice versa.

Mine which I purchased two weeks ago has a 0MOA rail. I actually prefer that as 6-700 yards will be my self imposed limit on caribou. RL 22 is taking the 250 Matchkings under MOA with every load. When I hit a node I get around 0.5MOA. The 250 GameKings are at about .7MOA. 265 Barnes TTSX and IMR 7828 are 2 MOA at best. 225 Barnes MRX can get down to 1 MOA with RL19. Haven't tried the H1000 yet.

What impresses me about the Savage is that the brake really cuts down the recoil. I can spot the tail end of the furious bullet impact at 100 yards through the scope and spotting the 300 yard gong swinging about is a lot of fun.

SidecarFlip · #5 01-17-2012, 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elkoholic307

When did you buy yours? I have heard elsewhere that the rails are 0 moa. Just wondering if they started with 0 and are now doing 20 or vice versa.

Ordered mine through my good friend's gunshop for a price I can't disclose. Lets just say I buy all my firearms from him because he affords me a very special price and he has and has has all my business for quite some time...... I'm waiting on a price for 2 11/111 Lightweight hunters chambered in Winchester Short Magnum. 2 is always better than one.....

Far as the 20 MOA cant, that came from Savage themselves when I called them about something else. I gave him the serial number of the rifle I have, and asked about the rail and he replied it was a 20MOA cant. It appears to my eye to be canted as well but then I'm half blind anyway.............

Lets put it this way, if it ain't (20 MOA) it will be........