I bought a Sako 75 years ago and just shot it for first time this year. Went to range with 3 types factory ammo, shot terrible 2 to 3" with all 3. Changed the scope mounts to old pair of Sako mounts I have & back to range, same thing.
Changed scope & back again, same thing. Tried handloads that shoot good in other rifles, same thing. Tried torquing stock to different settings with inch # torque wrench, still no shoot. It is very consistent, will not shoot better then 2". would not attempt a 200 yard shot. All my other Sako rifles shoot under 1" with almost anything.
Checked with Beretta, it is one of the rifles within the "bad serial # range but is not a bad one"
Sending to Beretta tomorrow, I have a feeling they will shoot rifle @ 50 yards & say it is OK. If that happens I have two options, it is stainless gun with "tupperware" stock. Acculfile says they can put Kevlar stock on rifle & cure it, but it will cost $800.00. Second option is re-barrel rifle, was thinking about Broughton (spelling) 5R barrel. Don't know what to do.
I have a Sako Finnlight in 270 Win. It would shoot 1" to 1.5" groups with any ammo. I talked to John Gallahger (gun builder from Jasper, Alabama) and he told me that it probably needed a pressure point under the barrel. That fixed my problem. Now it will shoot a dime size group with most factory ammo.
I had problems accurizing a clients 75, 7mm08. I bedded the stock, free floatred the barrel and also found pinching within the magazine well/ stock. After it was all done, the rifle still shot poorly. I finally got it worked out, this particular rifle had a welter weight fluted barrel. If I waited 30 seconds to a minute between shots, it shot sub MOA. To this end, if you have the same contour barrel, try and shoot it with big rests between shots. If it shoots well, you will know that the barrel is the problem and needs to be unscrewed and thrown away. Please have a go at this, it would be good to see if it is a universal problem. Sako never use to make welter weight barrels or rifles, its sort of new ground for them. Federal ammo should be the most accurate play around ammo for the above test.
With some of these pencil barrels, quite often the best approach is not to free-float, but rather bed the barrel for the entire length of the stock. Thin barrels often produce too much "whip". I learned this tidbit from a guy over at Stocky's rifle stocks.
Thats quite a good idea. Might have to give it a go on a synthetic stocked welter weight one day. Would be a cheaper alternative to re-barreling for hunters on a tight budget.
I don't really like pressure point barrel bedding to allieviate whip as the verticle stringing gets pretty bad. The Rem Model 7 can be like this. Full length bedding would be different, a basic means of dampening whip.
Unfortunately, it would be impossible to full length bed a fluted barrel rifle like some of the Sako rifles without running into other problems.
On that line of thinking, other options would be a rubber barrel deresenator or clamp on brake. There really isn't enough meat to cut a brake thread on the barrel. This and the flutes also make it impossible to fit a supressor (which would be the best dampener).
I have actually thinking about this with my problem child Finnlight 300 WSM. Bedding the barrel is not an option, but what I am thinking of doing is taking electrical tape and wrapping it around the barrel at the sling stud to provide a constant pressure point. I hoping ot give this a go in the next few weeks and will report back on the results.