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Rem 700 action issue

 
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  #15  
Old 03-29-2013, 01:25 AM
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Northern Alberta
Posts: 92
Re: Rem 700 action issue

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Originally Posted by etisll40 View Post
The Walmart crowd!!! OMG, once in a while I shop there too.
Well that makes a guy feel special... I for sure didn't pick it up at Wally World and it for cost more than 400 bones. Other than the messed up action it shoots like a house on fire. Well for my expectations anyways. It hold right at .5 moa as a factory gun. I'm not sure an extra 1/4 in or less is worth the 2-5 k more for a custom rifle.
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  #16  
Old 03-29-2013, 07:27 AM
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: N.D.
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Re: Rem 700 action issue

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Originally Posted by speeders View Post
Well that makes a guy feel special... I for sure didn't pick it up at Wally World and it for cost more than 400 bones. Other than the messed up action it shoots like a house on fire. Well for my expectations anyways. It hold right at .5 moa as a factory gun. I'm not sure an extra 1/4 in or less is worth the 2-5 k more for a custom rifle.
I've got a bit of gauling on at least one of my remmy's too, and only one of 4 started as a wally world toy (It has since grown up a bit though- gone from adl to bdl with a re-worked mountain rifle laminate). I wouldn't touch it; it really is a non issue but rem should do a bit better at the finish before they leave the door.
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  #17  
Old 03-29-2013, 12:50 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: greenwood, IN
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Re: Rem 700 action issue

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Originally Posted by Coyboy View Post
Race-ways are broached, which for a machine operation rarely if ever leaves a smooth finish. What you have there is typical, even for some older actions. I've seen worse on; remy, savage and winchesters before. since the OD of the broach internal surface really doesn't touch the OD of the lugs it's not a big deal.

if you want a smooth finish get a custom action they are edm.
looks like Remington is using a very short broach bar length (cheaper to buy), and then it's not been ground right or else resharpened right. For cutting race ways, I'd at least want 60" bar if not longer. You can actually get a very nice finish with a broch bar if the machine is in good shape, and of course the broach bar is kept up. The EDM or even a slotter is the way to go, but the process are very slow and becomes expensive.

Looking at the photo, I'd say it's a combo of the bar and the gibs on the slide being a little loose and maybe also some heavilly contaminated coolant. I'd have started with a complete pump out of the coolant and new filters to see if it helped much. From there it would be a new or resharpened bar. Accurate broaching is almost a black art, and engineers that are good at it are snatched up by the big ticket folks that will pay dearly for their services. I never was all that great at doing broach problems, but could get by. The grinds on the bar are closely guarded, and it often takes an act of congress to even get to see the blue prints. Newer broaches actually use Turcite on the slides and gibs that run at about .001" crush fit (they don't do well with Tyco roller bearings). The bar holder and reciever are very critical in alignment and how tight they are, and a chip in the wrong place can drive you nuts. What these guys are cutting would be easy compaired to accurate female splines
gary
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