I found a Bartlein at Bugholes that I really like but its only a 1in 10. I've called them and most of the barrel makers and every one has recommended a 1 in 11 twist based on my use if 150 to 180 grain bullets. I know a 1 in 10 will work fine but I like the idea of using an 11.
Why exactly would you want such a light contour barrel which are notoriously fussy with their loads and string when hot, if you could get something heavier for no additional cost ? If your climbing mountains with it, then just ignore my question...
Your gunsmith can re-contour it without much fuss, but you could as easily (or cheaper) open up the inletting on your stock.
Something else to consider is you can get a Criterion match barrel that attaches with a barrel nut which ships to you with no gunsmithing needed except to buy a $30 go gauge for your chamber and a barrel nut wrench for another $40 and if you don't own one, a receiver wrench. Northland shooters supply is the Criterion outlet and he can sell you all the tools you will need too. He buys many barrels at one time and often enough, he already has in stock something suitable, or he can tell you approximately when his next delivery is coming in. He also carries popular barrels from Shilen. You have to call Jim on the phone during MN business hours though. He is too busy to be answering emails.
I wouldn't consider the barrels I'm lookong at to be light contour. They have muzzle diameters of .660 to .670. They're for a big game rifle and not a heavy bench gun. My stock barrel has a .660 muzzle diameter. Light countours would be something like a Lilja #2 or the stock barrel on a rem mtn rifle.
It sounds like the sporter barrel on my 700 and it is the most fussy barrel I own. A 26" #3 weighs 3lb 7oz. Had it not been for Mc Gowan ruining the chamber on the left over blank I ordered in November and then giving me the runaround for the last 3 months, I would have a varmint contour on it now. All my varmint contour barrels shoot great. The recoil is also minimized somewhat with an additional 3lb weight in the barrel.
As you can see by the two targets in the thread that the groups aren't horrible, but I think it should be able to shoot much tighter (closer to 1/2 MOA). The good thing was the consistent groups between the two different factory loads. There's a good chance the barrel will shoot better after a hundred rounds or so, but I don't know if I want to put that much money in ammo down it to "POSSIBLY" have it shoot better.
I have an older Rem 700 that isn't even bedded that can shoot 3/4 MOA. I realize newer Rem 700s aren't what they use to be...hence my desire to re-barrel it.
If you have not previously owned a rifle with a heavier contour barrel, I recommend you try it. The barrel is the most substantial mass on the whole rifle. The lighter the barrel, the harder it is going to act against your stock, the scope and the bedding under recoil. It looks to me like your action is moving around in your stock, or you have a parallax problem with your scope. a 30-06 is a round with a fair amount of energy, even if you are not shooting the heaviest bullets... Your groups look very similar to those of my 700 in 8x57 before I changed the stock.
Route some channels into the inletting with a dremel and a router bit to give the bedding a better "anchor". The rear tang can really benefit from being pillar bedded since the surface area is so small to be putting pressure on wood, but if I'm not mistaken yours is a composite stock so should have been pillar bedded from the get go ?