Sounds like you are on a roll. I doubt that its time to be thinking about switching barrels. There is too much to be learned from tweaking what you have.
First I'd consider a proper barrel break in. Read this: Lilja Precision Rifle Barrels - Centerfire Maintenance
If you never get to a point where copper doesn't show on the patch then do this: Tubb Final Finish Bore Polishing System : Cabela's
After your over your tennis elbow from all of the above then take a look at the bedding.
My way of doing this is to first see if the mounting screws tighten up "all at once" or is the action being squeezed into the stock. Ya don't want it squeezed. Optimum is for the screws to cinch up all at once then torque to the proper amount. Most sensible folks use something like 65 inch/lbs of torque. I just hawq 'em down to something that "feels like" the right amount.
Next step in bedding status check, is to stand the gun on its butt holding it around the forearm and barrel with one hand and alternately loosening and tightening the mounting screws with the proper tool in the other hand. Your hand is quite sensitive and will feel any movement of the barrel as the screws are adjusted. Movement should be very close to zero. A dial indicator mounted with a magnetic holder fixed to the barrel with the indicator on the end of the fore arm will tell you much. My spec is a couple of thousands of an inch of movement.
I am not familiar with the 200s bedding method. read this: Pillar bedding on new savage? - Benchrest Central Forums
You may want to look here also: Sharp Shooter Supply - The Savage Specialists
Once you get all that you can get out of it with the above stuff and different factory fodder you may wish to try reloading.
After all of the above the barrel should be shot out, then get a new one.
(humor, I hope)