Don't turn necks for a factory chamber. It just makes extra work.
Buy a set of Lee Collet dies. They will size necks wtih the least runout.
For FL sizing buy a Redding "S" type FL die without the bushing. When you have loaded up some rounds measure the diameter of a loaded neck and order a bushing .002" smaller.
Use this die without the expanding button. They supply a primer knockout pin holder that will not touch the inside of the necks thus no lube is needed.
If precision loading is to be done then a competition seating die could be purchased. But this is not that necessary as getting the dies above that will work the brass as little as possible and therefore have the most even tension, least trimming and low runout.
here are my thoughts on redding in line dies.... please don't take them the wrong way if you use dies of other makers and are happy with your results!
with the exception of custom dies for use with arbour presses by wilson or similar, i would definitely opt for redding dies or converted forsters.
they are the only dies that will neck size uniformly and concentricly and the are the only dies that will seat the bullet concentricly, because the case is held in a chamber that then slides up into the die.
when using the dies this is what i do:
1. neck turn my cases to a uniform thickness, trying to remove the least amount of brass as possible. you need to have uniform neck wall thickness to ensure that you have consistent neck tension when using bushing dies. people that tell you don't need to neck turn lapua brass (for example)are talking rubbish, all brass has variation and this needs to be uniformed by neck turning.
2. prepare a loaded round to your desired o.a.l and measure the outside neck diameter using a micrometer capable of reading to a tenth of a thou.
3. you need a bushing slighlty smaller than this, how much smaller depends on many things from the size of the calibre, the amount of tension you want, the hardness of the brass...
4. in terms of accuracy, you want as little tension as possible to ensure that the bullet is not going to move or be affected by recoil. i go for 1 - 2 thou tension for hunting ammo, but i don't use any seriously kicky calibres...
if a loaded round measure .263 for example, i'd buy a .261 bushing and try it first. in theory, this should size to .261 and allow a little spring-back of the brass to around .262 giving a thou or so of grip.... in theory.
a couple of things to consider are that freshly turned brass will thin out after a few firings so neck size to about 1/3 of a thou over the final size you desire
if using the redding comp dies, you only need to neck size down 2/3 of the length of the neck. this will mean that the remainder of your fire-formed neck will be tight in your chamber and offers you some of the centralising benefits of using a tight neck chamber using a saami chamber.
if you use the body sizing dies to bump your shoulder to allow for easier chamber, do it after you have neck sized to ensure concentricity.
hope this is off some use....
i only use redding comp dies so maybe i am biased in my opinions. i wouldn't use anything else and they allow you to work to tight neck levels of accuracy using standard factory chambers....
any questions then please feel free to ask and i will try to help if i can
i think the s type dies are the same as the comp dies but without the micrometer adjustment for bullet seating and neck sizing, they just have the knurled bolt and lock nut.
i'd opt for the comp ones because the micrometer heads are fantastic for load development when trying to adjust seating depth etc. etc. they are in thou increments and you just screw up or down by the desired amount to adjust bullet jump....
if you get the comp set you'll get a body sizing die (it doesn't size the neck, it just bumps the shoulder and sizes the base a little) a neck-sizing die and a seating die.
that's what i'd opt for, though i know they are more expensive.
Obviously more than one way to skin a cat, but some things you do are just opposite with magnums and high pressure rounds.
However part of it is difference in SAAMI and minimum SAAMI chamber and tight neck versus factory.
If you are shooting a tight neck with minimum SAAMI chamber extra care is needed.
brass will flow and thicken AFTER firing and you will often find that you need to "clean up" turn after firing once or twice. Particularily in magnum calibers, if you did not neck turn down onto the shoulder of the case.
.001 neck tension often will not work for hunting rounds and magnums. They often want about .003 tension. .001 tension is not a guarantee of accuracy even for 6PPC guns, neck tension must be tuned for each gun and each load. Neck tension variations will really show up at LR distances versus short range. However, IF you do not have a tight neck and match barrel, doubt all that work will be even noticable unless you are running .004-.006 variation in neck thickness.
If you have plenty of time and it is factory barrel, then may want to test 10 pieces of brass before you spend a lot of time and effort for no positive results.