S1 Thank you for your answer. That is a aspect I had not heard of or thought about. I did use a weighted string to align my scope but I aligned the string and the verticle cross hair with no thought to how the reticle would track.
As you stated you would need a very secure(anchored to the earth type clamp) way to clamp your rifle action while mounting the scope so your tracking is correctly up and down.
Could you describe the set up you use to insure your rifles are set up this way.
Barring that I will just have to test at each distance and record my windage corrections.
If my scope is not tracking parallel to the reticle- is this something Leupold would fix or could maybe The Premier Reticle guys make it right. Thank you for your valuable insights. 308
Thanks Blaine, I too believe this is most likely what I'm seeing with my setup too.
How did you fix your rifle rigid enough to eliminate any movement while running your adjustments up and down. Thanks for your time.
S1's post above shows the hot setup. Mine is a little more pedestrian.
I just use a cleaning cradle type thing that I've had for about twenty years. It has a large wooden vice at the end and lets me clamp the butt of the rifle so that practically speaking the rifle is immobile. When I twist the elevation knob, no significant movement is noted.
To get more distance, take the plumb bob out to the range. Get one of those metal clamps, not the "C" clamps, but the ones that have a long metal bar with a moveable lower clamp piece. You can clamp the thing to the target from with the bar sticking out from the target, either to the side or out in front. Take a string and plumb bob and hang it from the bar. That will give you the vertical line you need.
When you say that you place the rifle in a barrel vise dead level (I would assume that is a 4" or 5" vise with padded jaws, please correct if wrong).
Could you explain how you level the rifle initially - using a level on the bridge or flat of a rail base? What kind of level (size) you prefer.
I very simply cannot level by eyeball - it ain't there - so would appreciate any suggestions.
Have you ever seen the procedure where you place two pieces of square bar stock (1/4" square rod about 12"-18" long) - on the top of the base under the scope and the other on the top of the turret cap and eyeball them level. Guess you could also do that with two rulers, I have never tried it either way.
I have the problem that my vise points the barrel at a nearby wall, don't have the option of dropping a line out a ways to plumb the crosshair.
Interested to hear what you think of the accessories for leveling crosshairs that are on the market - one by Stoney Point and the Reticle Leveler with the black and white lines (Scopelevel?).
This is one of the most basic tasks and it can be (is for me) a royal pain in the ass - and I haven't even asked about lapping rings...
Hola amigos (first post here) [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img] ! You have a great site, please allow me to join you to learn more about this fascinating sport.
S1, do you use a scope level for all your scopes, the "clicking" ones and the ones with the R2 reticle?
In your opinion, from what distance does the vertical component of the crosswinds, and the spin (yaw of repose) drift must be taken into account?
I like your idea of the inclined vertical post for the R2 reticle, R.Rinker's book "Understanding Basic Ballistics" mentions that the rear sight in the old Springfield rifle also had a little lateral slope buil-in to compensate for spin drift [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img].