I was shooting a new Non-typical 300wsm that I received from GA last week and was doing a break in. Shoot 1 time then clean. did this 5 times as suggested. then shot some groups with factory rounds 180 Accubonds ( federal ammo )rifle shoots great. Then would shoot 3 shot groups and clean again.
In doing this I was wondering how everyone else cleanes there barrels.
can you tell me the specifics of how you like to clean yours? What you use?
Your doing things right.. (for arguments sake ) there are alot of methods out there...
1 shot/clean for 10 rounds
3 shots/clean for 15 rounds
5 shots/clean for 25 rounds
Thats what I do...
I uses nylon coated rods and a brass punch type jag. I also use nylon brushes.
if youi are shooting .30 cal get the 7mm jag and you can use the 1 1/4" patches and they are snugg as they should be but not so tight you have to cram them through.
I have a mixture of 2/3's Shooters choice 1/3 Kroil
I also have Sweet's on hand for every 200 rounds.
Chris and the guys at GA will tell you once the barrel is broke in let the rifle tell you when it is time to clean.
I talked to some of the top barrel makers a while back for an NRA article and the most logical advice I got for barrel break-in was to shoot singles till the number of patches needed to get to a clean barrel dropped. Depends on the barrel. Don't shoot two-shots or 3-shots and clean, you undid what your goal is by firing the second shot on a fouled barrel. I am doing that now and it works, also saves a lot of shooting and cleaning when you are have a good barrel. Seen some factory barrrels take a lot of patches tho.
As for chemical, I have switched to TM Solution, available from Sinclair or direct. Great stuff, gets right to both the carbon and copper from the first patch. Bottom line, there's lots of good cleaning solvents, just as important to develop a good procedure that works for you.
I do the following:
..soak four or five patches in TM and run through one at a time
..put five or six drops of TM on a proper fitting brush and brush 6-8 strokes
..clean the rod and brush thoroughly
..soak four or five patches in TM and run through one at a time, might need one or two more if the copper is bad
..repeat until no signs of copper - some barrels take lots more patches, some are done very quickly
..if the rifle is not going to be shot soon I run a patch soaked in TM Oil down the bore, also put some oil on another patch and wipe all the metal
..if the rifle is going to be shot I run a dry patch through the bore, then another on a chamber rod and dry the chamber well, also use a mop on the chamber
Further cleaning includes brushing the bolt face clear of chips and grit, lubing the lugs and bolt handle cam area and cleaning the lug recess and rails with a Midway lug recess tool. Also always remember to wipe the crown, lots of gorf accumulates at the crown. Always use a proper fitting bore-guide, that is a necessity. Always keep the muzzle tipped downward as you clean to keep solvent out of the action area. Wipe any spilled solvent immediately from the stock. Always store the rifle barrel down if possible, surprising amount of solvent stays in the bore and you do not want it to run back into the receiver area. Some bedding compounds and composite rifle stocks go to hell when solvents get to them over a period of time.
Congratulations on buying a NonTypical - they are killin' machines. My NonTypical has taken deer out to 783 yards. I shoot Accubonds in mine with excellent results. GA makes very good rifles, I just got another last week.
This is a very interesting topic to me right now. I had a Winchester model 70 in 7 STW that I could just not get to shoot 3 shot groups with. So I advertised it and a fellow came out to look at it. He had a borescope with him to my amazement. So I figured he would find something in that barrel that wasn't right. And he did. The last 4 inches of the barrel, the inside was choppy. I dont really know how to explain it, but the way he explained it was Winchesters fault when they were making the barrel and pushing the steel through, the last 4 inches did not have enough lube and created a choppy effect. Anyways, he said he would only buy it to rebarrel and so he did. Which brought me to my next question for him. Before he ran off with that borescope I had him check out my 300 RUM that has not been shooting worth a crap lately. I told him that its got around 5-600 rounds through it, regularly cleaned, and its not shooting near the same size groups as it once was. So he looked down the barrel and right away he asked me if I used sweets to clean and I said yes. He said it appeared to be eating my barrel away. I broke in this barrel using the 1 shot clean method for the first 10 shots, then shoot 3 and clean for 20, then 5 and clean for 20. A total of 50 shots and a whole lot of sweets is used to do that. Now I am using a coated rod and a nice tight patch. I also use the cheap $1.50 brass brushes every time I clean with sweets which is every time I clean the barrel every 40-50 rounds. He said to basically lay off the sweets. I am very confused here. I thought a barrel needed to be clean and stay clean to shoot good and give you maximum barrel life. I have been doing this with all my rifles. Cleaning with a brass brush and sweets every 50 rounds, give or take. Should I only be using it every 200 rounds as I seen on a previous post? Could this be why my rifle was shooting 1/2 MOA for 400 rounds, then shooting 1-2MOA. It just gets me thinking is all. Cleaning to much or cleaning to little, jeez everythings so complicated. I know it says on sweets bottle to not leave in barrel for more than 15 minutes. I dont let it even sit in there for 3 minutes. Do I need to use a different solvent for the basic cleaning? I thought sweets was good to use for all around. Anybody have or had a similar problem?