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Getting back into it

 
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  #1  
Old 08-07-2011, 10:48 AM
E4T E4T is offline
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Getting back into it

I have a savage 110 action in 7mm rem mag that I would like to work up into a reasonably good long range weapon. I will be handloading when I am done and looking to finish with a premium bullet in the 160 to 180 grain range. I have been out of this for a very long time so any help getting up to speed would be greatly appreciated. To start with I am trying to dicide on a good barrel, manufacturer, steel, twist etc. At this point I am leaning towards Krieger in SS at 1.25' dia and 29" finished length, fluted and flip flopping on twist between the manuf recomended 1:9.25 up to 1:8. Any pearls on any of this would be greatly appreciated
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  #2  
Old 08-07-2011, 07:58 PM
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Re: Getting back into it

I don't think you can go wrong with Kreiger. I have one on my 6.5-284 and it's very accurate. I bought the barrel with over 800rds down it and did a setback for my first rebarrel not wanting to ruin a high dollar barrel. I was very pleased.

My 7mm RM Sendero with a factory barrel stabilizes the 180g Bergers just fine from a 1:9.25" twist.

I hate slow twist barrels. But, I don't see any reason to go faster than 1:9.25 unless you have a particularly long/heavy bullet.

-- richard

Last edited by rscott5028; 08-07-2011 at 08:32 PM.
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  #3  
Old 08-07-2011, 08:04 PM
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Re: Getting back into it

Sounds like a winning combination to me. I would stay on the safe side and go straight 1:9. I really like the Savage and it ease of smithing done by penny pincher like myself. I use a Lothar Walther barrel on my Savage. It has a harder SS than anything produced in the U.S. It comes from Germany. I can hold a consistent .25 to .5 MOA depending on the wind. It cleans up nice after break in. I would suggest looking into a Stockade Stock. He specializes in Savage actions and making stocks to fit them. I can tell you from experience they are really nice stocks. EGW makes a really nice one piece base. Make sure you spend some money on glass.

Tank
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"Enter through the narrow gate. For wide is the gate and broad is the road that leads to destruction, and many enter through it. [14] But small is the gate and narrow the road that leads to life, and only a few find it.

If you find your self in a fair fight, your tactics suck!- Marine 1st Sergeant Jim Ryfinger

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Old 08-09-2011, 09:00 PM
E4T E4T is offline
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Re: Getting back into it

Thanks for the input and info. I will check out both companies. I have a couple other questions... Im sure more than a couple but for now. If I go with a barrel countour #11 I can get the length on the barell I want without paying extra. Clearly mass is good for accuracy but what can I expect in the difference between that and say a #8 contour where the muzzle diam is .820 rather than an inch, with respect to accuracy. The weight reduction would be a big deal for most people if they plan to hunt with it... and I will... but I am the guy who carried the M60 rather than the M16A2 because I wanted the firepower, weight or not. I am looking to add mass to my weapon but I am trying to find that point where we reach the diminishing returns. Also, this action is pre acutrigger so I had some trigger work done right after I bought it but nothing else done to the action. Other than glass bedding and pillering, what might I need to be researching or considering with regard to the action I already have. I have noticed that fluting on the bolt for example seems to be an increasingly popular thing. I do really appreciate all the wisdom shared.

Last edited by E4T; 08-09-2011 at 10:09 PM.
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  #5  
Old 08-10-2011, 08:39 AM
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Re: Getting back into it

When your building a heavy gun, fluting is merely aesthetics on a bolt body. Now in the case of the light weight model that Savage is currently making, its weight reduction. For a 7mmRM you want a 26-28" barrel. If you plan to carry at all, I would suggest a finished taper of .820-.875. My rifle is a Savage with a B&C stock Medalist A2 w/28" finished at .814" It's a small shank taper from 1.055"-.814 to match an older muzzle break I had. 28" would be optimal in my opinion. My gun weights in close to 13#. going with a .820 is not going to limit your long range accuracy. It will only limit how many rounds you can fire in succession before your barrel is too hot. Big barrels for target type setups are more for heat sink purposes. But there is definitely an increase to stability with a heavier bore.

Tank
__________________
Matthew 7:13-14
"Enter through the narrow gate. For wide is the gate and broad is the road that leads to destruction, and many enter through it. [14] But small is the gate and narrow the road that leads to life, and only a few find it.

If you find your self in a fair fight, your tactics suck!- Marine 1st Sergeant Jim Ryfinger

Friends don't let friends develop canonitis!-chucknbach

arguing over the internet is like the special Olympics....even if you win, you are still...special!

Last edited by liltank; 08-11-2011 at 08:27 AM.
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  #6  
Old 08-10-2011, 10:09 PM
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Re: Getting back into it

Krieger is a great way to go but it will take you a while to get one, I would also check into a Brux barrel, they shoot great with less lead time, I wouldn't worry about going with the smaller countor liltank is on the nose about accuracy issues, I shoot a #4 flutted 28" brux barrel it shoots in the 2's at 100 yrds with vld bullets it just limits the number of rounds you can shoot before cooling, I hunt in big mtns so I prefer a little lighter gun so if you want to hunt with it go with the lighter countor.

Last edited by 270winshort; 08-10-2011 at 10:12 PM.
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  #7  
Old 08-11-2011, 08:39 PM
E4T E4T is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 5
Re: Getting back into it

All helpful info and much appreciated. While I was checking into the other barrels sugested, I ran into the issue of head space. As I understand it, that head space can be one of the biggest contributors to bullet yaw and reduced accuracy. I have to admit I did not have a clue as to what would be better between the options. If memory serves it was +.05 or -.05 or +-.025. Any advice here? I have been told that when reloading for accuracy if you use brass fired only in your weapon, then resize the neck only and set over all cartridge length by adjusting the seating die with a dummy round that you make my seating the bullet into the brass by carefully putting it toghether and chambering it your weapon so as to minimize that gap. Is that off base, on target or other, and if a propper process what would that do for what measurment to order the barrel with.

Again, your help is very much appreciated!!

Last edited by E4T; 08-11-2011 at 09:04 PM.
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