Originally Posted by j_unzicker
Yeah, without a lot of experience myself, I was careful to make sure I didn't removed too much wood, and now two pieces of paper is pretty tight. It sounds like what I may have done was remove the pressure point (which was at least somewhat constant) and replaced it with a set up where upon recoil the barrel may touch various parts of the stock in an inconsistant manner. Are you suggesting that I remove a little bit more of the stock to make sure that it doesn't touch at all during recoil?
There are several things that you can do to bring the accuracy back.
1= place cardboard (Cracker box thickness) shims under the barrel to add tip pressure
back in the rifle.
2= Install a jack screw where the sling swivel is . Drill the hole all the way through and use a
longer screw with a lock nut on the outside that will reach the barrel inside and while shooting
tighten the screw 1/4 turn every 3 shots and watch the groups. when you find the setting that
gives you the best group lock down the lock nut. when you get back from the range take the
barreled action out of the stock without disturbing the screw. Place a dab of bedding compound
around the screw and replace the action in the stock(Be sure and use release on the screw)
When you remove the screw the bedding will maintain the tip pressure and you can replace the
sling swivel stud.
If/when you full float a barrel most of the time you have to change loads or the bullet weight
to get the accuracy back.
With some loading you should be able to improve the accuracy if you full float.
Tip pressure makes rifles consistant for the first couple of rounds but as the barrel heats up
groups normally open up.
With the full floated barrel 4 or 5 consistant shots in a row are not uncommon.
You didn't mess up you just changed the harmonics of the barrel for the load you are using.
I Hope this helps.
J E CUSTOM