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Free Floating Problem

 
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  #1  
Old 02-08-2011, 07:12 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 61
Free Floating Problem

I have a Remington 700 BDL 7RM (factory walnut stock). I noticed that the forend had a contact point against the barrel about an 1" long. Other than that, the barrel was free. (this spot was right where the swivel stud connects from below).
So I hand sanded that area down until I could run a piece of paper under the barrel through that spot and down the whole barrel.
Took it to the range and my groups actually opened up a little. I was shooting right at 1 MOA and now I am closer to 1.5 MOA.
My question is, "Do some of the factory wood Rem 700 stocks need a pressure point to shoot more accurately?" I guess I just assumed that all barrels would shoot better free floated. Would you suggest that I do anything to recreate a pressure point in that same area? The action is not bedded.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 02-08-2011, 11:42 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Posts: 156
Re: Free Floating Problem

While I am not a pro gun plumber, I have built and/or worked on a few dozen bolt guns and I have yet to find one that shot better with a pressure bedded barrel. Perhaps I have just been lucky, but every gun has performed more consistently after a good bedding job. The most dramatic was a Win 70 Classic in 338Win Mag. It shot 4" groups with the crap hot melt glue bedding compound. I removed that crap and did a proper pillar bedding job and the gun is sub MOA. Your gun sounds like a prime candidate for a good bedding job.

When I float a barrel, I do go a bit farther than a $ bill or a sheet of paper clearance. On a stock with a rigid forearm, I will go ~.050" clearance. If it has an injection molded stock, sometimes double that to keep it from touching during recoil.
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Old 02-08-2011, 11:58 PM
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Re: Free Floating Problem

Yeah, without a lot of experience myself, I was careful to make sure I didn't removed too much wood, and now two pieces of paper is pretty tight. It sounds like what I may have done was remove the pressure point (which was at least somewhat constant) and replaced it with a set up where upon recoil the barrel may touch various parts of the stock in an inconsistant manner. Are you suggesting that I remove a little bit more of the stock to make sure that it doesn't touch at all during recoil?
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  #4  
Old 02-09-2011, 12:24 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 5,420
Re: Free Floating Problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by j_unzicker View Post
Yeah, without a lot of experience myself, I was careful to make sure I didn't removed too much wood, and now two pieces of paper is pretty tight. It sounds like what I may have done was remove the pressure point (which was at least somewhat constant) and replaced it with a set up where upon recoil the barrel may touch various parts of the stock in an inconsistant manner. Are you suggesting that I remove a little bit more of the stock to make sure that it doesn't touch at all during recoil?
There are several things that you can do to bring the accuracy back.

1= place cardboard (Cracker box thickness) shims under the barrel to add tip pressure
back in the rifle.
2= Install a jack screw where the sling swivel is . Drill the hole all the way through and use a
longer screw with a lock nut on the outside that will reach the barrel inside and while shooting
tighten the screw 1/4 turn every 3 shots and watch the groups. when you find the setting that
gives you the best group lock down the lock nut. when you get back from the range take the
barreled action out of the stock without disturbing the screw. Place a dab of bedding compound
around the screw and replace the action in the stock(Be sure and use release on the screw)

When you remove the screw the bedding will maintain the tip pressure and you can replace the
sling swivel stud.

If/when you full float a barrel most of the time you have to change loads or the bullet weight
to get the accuracy back.

With some loading you should be able to improve the accuracy if you full float.

Tip pressure makes rifles consistant for the first couple of rounds but as the barrel heats up
groups normally open up.

With the full floated barrel 4 or 5 consistant shots in a row are not uncommon.

You didn't mess up you just changed the harmonics of the barrel for the load you are using.

I Hope this helps.

J E CUSTOM
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Old 02-09-2011, 05:38 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PA
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Re: Free Floating Problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by J E Custom View Post
There are several things that you can do to bring the accuracy back.


If/when you full float a barrel most of the time you have to change loads or the bullet weight
to get the accuracy back.

With some loading you should be able to improve the accuracy if you full float.

Tip pressure makes rifles consistant for the first couple of rounds but as the barrel heats up
groups normally open up.

With the full floated barrel 4 or 5 consistant shots in a row are not uncommon.

J E CUSTOM
Those tips are correct. I once had a Rem 700 and removed the pressure point with same experience. I did not think about those things way back then. I simply mixed a hunk of fiberglass and allowed it to set under the barrel, approximating the same pressure point. I was able to get the same accuracy again afterward. Remington at one time placed that high point on all their stocks with the idea accuracy would improve.
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  #6  
Old 02-09-2011, 06:02 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,103
Re: Free Floating Problem

The high point is there so when you shoot off of bipods or a bag it does not make the stock and barrel bind cause there already touching. I would just get a glass bedding kit from stockys or brownells for 20$, sand the channel a bit more then bed the area around the recoil lug and the tang in the rear, then if it doesn't improve you may be SOL!
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  #7  
Old 02-09-2011, 06:23 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Thunder Basin, WY
Posts: 1,788
Re: Free Floating Problem

Reading this kinda makes me nervous.

I am currently in the process of having the same gun bedded and floated. My issue wasn't group size (avg. group was right around 1 MOA, but could get 1/3 moa when the stars aligned just right). Shift in POI from one day to the next with same ammo from same box under same conditions was the problem.

I guess if I loose precision after the bed/float I'll have to re-think this project and maybe re-barrel.?

I'm thinking I'd rather have slightly bigger groups (on this particular rifle) than have the POI shift 1-1.5 moa from one day to the next.

This shift I saw was done with pedestal type benchrest too. I hesitate to say how much shift I would have seen from different shooting positions and different stock pressure.

I know that I am not really answering your question, just contributing some info; hope you don't mind.
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