I recently posted a question about sighting issues and have a question concerning the free floating I did on my rem 700. How far up the barrel should it be free floated mine is floated all the way to the recoil lug is that to far up or is that how it is suppose to be? After looking at some glass bedding videos it seems like maybe I was suppose to leave some touching about two inches from the lug. Or is that only wen it is bedded? Thanks Bri
If this is a factory barrel please remember that it is very possible that accuracy and consistancy will drop off by free floating the barrel. It is not uncommon at all to see a factory rifle have issues once you freefloat a barrel. Some shoot better, some no change, some much worse.
The reason is because most Rem 700 stocks are made with a pressure pad near the tip of the forend. This pad is designed to apply pressure which will dampen vibration patterns which helps consistancy with the factory barrels. This is because the machining of the factory rifles is far less then ideal and this up pressure helps to make the vibration patterns created by firing the rifle more consistant.
It causes other problems but generally it gets a barrel shooting well enough for factory specs which for the most part is better then 2 moa.......
When you relieve this pressure pad, there is nothing to help control the vibration patterns and you can often see accuracy problems.
If your bedding a rifle, I always put two layers of 10 mil tape that is 2" wide just ahead of the recoil lug or receiver face and bed the rifle. This offers a clearnace area under the barrel shank.
Hope this helps some.
Allen Precision Shooting
Home of the Allen Magnum, Allen Xpress and Allen Tactical Wildcats and the Painkiller Muzzle brakes.
Proper glass bedding will always help a rifle. I myself have never had problems with a factory Remington 700 not shooting better after free floating the barrel but there is always the exception. Before you go putting a bunch of money into having someone glass bed etc. I would look around some. There are always some good composite stocks with bedding blocks in them floating around used for good prices. Some will need a light skim coat of glass but most don't. My standard procedure for fixing up a Rem 700 for a hunting rifle is free float the barrel and adjust the trigger to 2 1/2 pounds even before I mount a scope and go shoot it. I have not found many that will not shoot under 1" at 100 yards with proper hand loads. Most will shoot bug holes. Good luck and good shooting.
Fiftydriver.. If I did damage ( or take away accuracy) by floating bcuz yes it is all factory is there a way to repair or bring it back , to recreate this pressure point so to speak? Or maybe best off with a new stock or what would ya recommend ? Thanks Bri
Factory stocks have been padded/shimmed to barrel contact at various points since the early 1900's to make factory rifle shoot more accurate. That's cause the the bedding area around the receiver's not all that even and consistant. Some factory rifle had their barrel held tight against the fore end tip with a screw through the fore end under the rear sight to improve fore end contact. The problem with shimmed and padded barrels is, when the rifle's held with its fore end atop bags on a bench, the pressure transmitted from the bag through the stock to the barrel's different than when the rifle's held without the fore end resting on something. And that typically changes point of impact and accuracy between field positions and shooting from a bench. It may not be much, but it's there.
Epoxy bedding the receiver in all sorts of stocks and totally free floating the barrel's typically resulted in best accuracy. By "totally free floating" I mean the only things touching the barrel's the front of the receiver and the round in its chamber. No pad under the barrel for some distance in front of the receiver; all that does is cause vertical shot stringing.
If there's plenty of room for flimsy stock fore ends to clear the barrel as the barrel whips from firing and the fore end bending from how the rifle's held, flimsy fore ends aren't a problem. Some rifle stock's fore end's flimsy enough that even resting it on a bag atop a bench will let the weight of the barreled action bend it enough to touch the barrel at its tip. Proof the old "dollar bill" theory for clearance between barrel and fore end's a myth. Besides, the more space there is around the barrel, the faster it'll cool and therefore please folks wanting rapid barrel cooling.