Thanks guys, at least I know there is a potential solution short of trying to shoot the barrel out faster. I have an elk trip in two months and don't want to waste precious range time trying to screw with things now. I'll probably put up with it through the trip then try to fix it this winter.
The bore foam I referenced is the standard Wipe-Out, I find it works well on carbon but is not ideal for copper. However if I Wipe-Out the barrel then flood it with the Barnes copper solvent for 30min, it is spotless and I get a few good groups before it goes to pot again.
I used to use bronze brushes but now I use Nylon brushes. Back when the CopperMelt product was the rage, I bought the Tipton set of Nylon brushes. The CopperMelt process was to use an undersized brush for your barrel (.264 brush for .284 cal) and wrap a patch around the brush and soak it with CopperMelt using the pipette that came with it.
Well the CopperMelt "petered" out and I can't find it anymore but the process works just as good with Montana Xtreme's "Copper Killer". I usually run 10 patches or less through my factory barrels. The first two take out the carbon fouling and then here comes the copper.
I use my AA Mini Maglite with the "Nite Ize" fiber optic attachment to look for copper in the land of my barrels at the muzzle end.
I have also used the Barnes CR-10 and I think Montana Xtreme is more aggressive. JMO, JohnnyK.
That's the size I use on my .300WM. I usually push the first two patches completely through then on the subsequent patches make ten in/out passes each. I use dry patches during the process to keep it from getting to overly "juicy" in there and spillig out the muzzle onto the floor. JohnnyK