I have a new Douglas Premium barrel (chambered in 6.5-06 on an Argie Mauser) that shoots 2 - 4 inch groups at 100. I have done a lot of work with this rifle to identify and eliminate possible causes of poor accuracy including scope/mounts, bedding, load development and crown etc.
At a loss of what next to do I cleaned it and 2 other rifles that have had roughly the same number of rounds through them, all less than 200 with Sweets. The patches from the other two (a Lothar Walther and a Kreiger) were a completely different colour to the very dark patches from the Douglas – this barrel produces a lot of copper. The Douglas also took several “dry” patches to clean up, the others only one.
Is there a way of establishing if the fouling and accuracy problems are linked ?
She sounds like she is full of copper to me. Have you been using solid copper bullets?
I will be the first to recommend you do a thorough cleaning with either BoreTech Eliminator or BoreTech CU+2.
And, no, a substitute cleaner will not be as good.
Ps: after you finally get all the copper off the rough spots, the next bullets can then start to smooth things out. It will take time but it will improve with good cleanings and round count. Cleaning will become much easier as well.
I've been using mainly Swift Gii's with a few Hornady SST's. If I reclean with Sweets (a specific ammonia based copper remover) it doesn't colour up the patches, I figured this meant I had all the copper out -am I missing something here ??
PS - If I go on to use Autosol paste (we don't get JB's down here) it results in black coloured patches, and they never seem to get any lighter . . . .
Some barrels, especially rough factory sporter ones, usually shoot more accurate after they're fouled. Others shoot best without fouling. Some Douglas barrels ae rough and need to be fouled with copper before they shoot good..
If your barrel fouls, and won't shoot accurate, it may not be able to shoot any better.
Couple of things to check.....
Barrel should not touch the fore end any place; totally free floating's best.
Rifle is glass beddd into a plastic stock, barrel is fully free floated, all screws have been checked several times and I have been careful to ensure my hold isn't causing issues through the flexible stock.
Location: winchester, Tennessee. very small rural town.
Re: Fouling and Accuracy
I'm certainly not arguing with anything anybody says, for what I'm about to say is contrary to What most people believe. I hardly ever take a brush to my barrels anymore because I have found that if I let then build up with fouling that at some point ,50-60 shots, the accuracy starts to be more consistent. By that I mean I might can shoot a .75 inch group with a squeaky clean barrel but my next group might measure 1.25 and the next .9 and so on. After many shots the bore seems to become seasoned and I can consistently shoot under .75 at 100. Like I say this is not gonna work with every rifle but does work with mine. I still clean with oil and patches to remove carbon and suit but I leave the copper fouling be. I'm relatively new to the rifle shooting game so the more experienced shooter's opinions will be the ones to go with, just food for thought.
BigBolin, you are shooting factory chrome moly barrels correct? Or are they custom stainless?
Try, going in with the BTE after the Sweets 7.62 says your barrel is clean. I did this while testing cleaners and the BTE started getting more copper. This was after the patches with sweets came out clean after a 10 minute soak. All done with nickel plated proof positive jags too.