Originally Posted by Shawn Carlock
Lots of good info on this post. My question in the form of an answer is why do you care what the inches of drop are? All that matters is knowing where to set the scope to impact where you want at a given distance and in a given condition. I highly recommend that you put "clicks" and "inches" in the closet and start to develope a chart that simply says "400 yd - 4.75" etc this will save much time and confusion.
I absolutely agree with you.
My origional question was more for conversational reasons than practical application. Since I only have the click values for zero at distance "X", I was curious about the conversion to actual drop at those distances. I've heard people referencing how much a bullet from their rifle drops at a certain distance and was curious as to the method of conversion.
I basically do what Lever-hed outlined in his first post, " You should zero your rifle for 100 yds at that particular ammo, load, bullet, etc. Then, once your satisfied with that zero, practice shooting at 50 yd increments all the way out to what ever distance your shooting at.. this will giv you ACTUAL drop for each distance (and record it)and your dope chart will be all the more accurate."
I use the stock hash marks on the ".308" turret cap (ignoring the .308 part) and record which "value/mark" is zero at distance "X" for my specific rifle. Since my LRT is 1" elevation clicks it drastically reduces the amount of clicking I have to do. In order to shoot a deer at 400 yards I simply look at my drop table, dial to the 400 yard value and shoot.
This thread was an attempt to further my understanding of an aspect of long range shooting that until now I was in the dark on; it wasn't an attempt to over complicate anything.
Thanks for all the input!
Good stuff here!