NWdan send the scope back to Leupold. I had the same problem with a canted reticle in a VXlll. The reticle and the turrent should be parrallel with each other. With my POI dead on at 100 yards I would be about about 18" to the right at 700 yards. I have read about others having the same problem with Leupolds.
You'll get about as many ideas here as you will get responders......
I'd go with what GG said but.......first I'd try this:
Make a plumb bob. Mine is a very long piece of string (celing to floor length) , a partial neck sized case (your 300 RUM would be perfect) and a bullet.
That is, if you don't have a plumb bob readily available.
Stick the string through the flash hole and out the mouth a ways. Tie a large knot in it so it won't pull back through the flash hole. Pull the knot to the back to the case head and set a bullet in a little ways.
Find the longest open span in the house. Like from the bathroom down the hall and into the garage, or what ever. Hang the plumb bob from ceiling to floor. While it stops swinging set up a table at the other end of the open area.
Mount the rifle on the table level. Use a cleaning vise and a bubble out of a cheapie lever for on top of any flat spot on the action. Top of rear mount, magazine rails etc.
level the rifle precisely, if that is possible with a bubble level.
Then center the cross hair on the plumb bob string. Reverifying level constantly.
Then turn the scope until things are parallel. You'll know then what you have.
Additionally once setup solid and lever. crank up the elevation and see if the + reticle goes straight up.
GG's method is way more nifty but this way is way more fun. Plus anyone else in the house get to gen up some interesting comments.;)
But hey, it works.....
I may be the slowest guy on the mountain . . . . but . . . . I'm on the mountain!
Thanks all for the advice on leveling the scope. I do have a level that sits on the action rails. Using that and lining up on a building that is level / plumb I set the crosshairs so they should be exactly square with the action. After my initial outings and shooting right I bought a Sinclair anti-cant level that arrived this week. I mounted it up and used it this weekend with my buddy watching me shoot to make sure I wasn't canting. Shots broke with the level right in the middle and still hitting 3MOA right at 1K. I hadn't thought to run the scope up on the plumb bob with everything locked down, I'll give that a try to check verticle.
Part or all of the problem could be the Gyroscopic drift that GG mentioned as well. Having never shot this far I wasn't aware that was possible. I guess as long as it is the same every time I can correct for it.
dmgreene, was your promblem corrected when you got your scope back and started shooting again? On mine I just don't understand what would be wrong with the scope when it shot into a verticle line with 26 MOA up elevation at a 100 yard bullseye.
Unfortunately it sounds to me like a canted reticle. This is one of the things I like to check for with a boresighter/colimator (the Leupold is quick and easy to use).
Line the reticle up with the grid and crank your turret. The intersection of the reticle should stay on the same line all the way down. If it doesn't, it's not square with the turrets and that will cause serious problems as you've found out.
dmgreene, was your promblem corrected when you got your scope back and started shooting again? On mine I just don't understand what would be wrong with the scope when it shot into a verticle line with 26 MOA up elevation at a 100 yard bullseye.[/QUOTE
NWdan they did fix my scope. However my gun would start shooting to the right at 100 yards as I started dialing in more MOA. Remember that it would only take 3" off the verticle line to be off 30" at 1000 yards.