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Decrease throat erosion with longer barrels?

 
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  #36  
Old 06-11-2013, 12:34 PM
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Re: Decrease throat erosion with longer barrels?

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Originally Posted by LDHunter View Post
OP = Original Poster

In this case it would be you...

bob
Thanks!

Now I think I recall a list acronyms listed some where on this site. But I ain't sure.

Spencer
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  #37  
Old 06-11-2013, 01:40 PM
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Re: Decrease throat erosion with longer barrels?

The barrel needs to be "broken in" and perfectly clean before it is sent out. The barrels I've had treated were made by Brux, Krieger, and Hart. I do the chambering and crowning. I fire 2-3 rounds and measure the case heads, examine the bore with a HawkEye Bore Scope, looking for problems (copper build up, which I have not found in any of them!), throughly clean the inside (and out), bore scope again, and ship 'um out. I do all caliber and shop name before shipping.
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  #38  
Old 06-11-2013, 03:17 PM
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Re: Decrease throat erosion with longer barrels?

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Originally Posted by shortgrass View Post
The barrel needs to be "broken in" and perfectly clean before it is sent out. The barrels I've had treated were made by Brux, Krieger, and Hart. I do the chambering and crowning. I fire 2-3 rounds and measure the case heads, examine the bore with a HawkEye Bore Scope, looking for problems (copper build up, which I have not found in any of them!), throughly clean the inside (and out), bore scope again, and ship 'um out. I do all caliber and shop name before shipping.
Do any of the barrel makers sell barrels melonited as an option that you're aware of?
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  #39  
Old 06-11-2013, 03:56 PM
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Re: Decrease throat erosion with longer barrels?

It's hard to work on barrels (threading, chambering, etc.) once they have been melonited. It is up to the owner to get it done. Many smiths will handle the request, but not until ordered by he owner.

The other question regarding barrel break-in and meloniting: yes, the barrel needs to be broken in prior to meloniting. For some, that may mean just a few rounds. For others, it may mean 40-50 rounds.
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  #40  
Old 06-11-2013, 05:26 PM
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Re: Decrease throat erosion with longer barrels?

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Originally Posted by azsugarbear View Post
It's hard to work on barrels (threading, chambering, etc.) once they have been melonited. It is up to the owner to get it done. Many smiths will handle the request, but not until ordered by he owner.

The other question regarding barrel break-in and meloniting: yes, the barrel needs to be broken in prior to meloniting. For some, that may mean just a few rounds. For others, it may mean 40-50 rounds.
I considered you might be able to order a barrel chambered & threaded, but I wasn't sure.

The Model 12 Savage headspace can be adjusted, although I don't know how much adjustment is available, but it appears to be substantial.

Check it out. http://www.savagearms.com/accuracy/
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  #41  
Old 06-11-2013, 05:51 PM
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Re: Decrease throat erosion with longer barrels?

I think if you buy a Benchmark blank and have them fit it to your action they will get it treated for you. Most barrel makers don't want you messin' with their 'work', 'cept to thread, chamber & crown. Barrels that have enough rounds down them, that show some cracking, are not good candidates for treating. I have set several back, that showed minor cracking or rounded/eroded edges, a turn or two and re-cut the chamber to head space, then fired a couple of rounds just for the heck of it and to measure brass (because I'd had a reamer in there, again). I know very little about Savages and don't want to know anymore than I know now.
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  #42  
Old 06-11-2013, 07:09 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2012
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Re: Decrease throat erosion with longer barrels?

Quote:
Originally Posted by shortgrass View Post
I think if you buy a Benchmark blank and have them fit it to your action they will get it treated for you. Most barrel makers don't want you messin' with their 'work', 'cept to thread, chamber & crown. Barrels that have enough rounds down them, that show some cracking, are not good candidates for treating. I have set several back, that showed minor cracking or rounded/eroded edges, a turn or two and re-cut the chamber to head space, then fired a couple of rounds just for the heck of it and to measure brass (because I'd had a reamer in there, again). I know very little about Savages and don't want to know anymore than I know now.
Thanks for the info.
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