I have used the Tubbs system on a 3006 savage with good results. I only used 1/2 the bullets which is 5 of each polishing grit. I found the barrel got so hot I could only shoot 3 tubbs bullets and had to let the barrel cool down. So I cleaned after the first 3 rounds while the barrel was cooling shot 2 additional rounds and cleaned again. Then I would move to the next polishing compound repeat the process.
When I got to the #3 compound I noticed a big reduction in the pressure required to move the jag and cleaning patch down the barrel. I also noticed that 2 tight spots were gone. My groups are tighter from 1 1/2" to 1" and velocity is down 20fps. If the jags friction is any indicator then I think the barrels pressure and friction are greatly reduced.
The claims of increased velocity are at rated pressure and full capacity not with the same amount of powder and lower pressure.
You will find that a faster burning powder may be the ticket.
Acutally the final finish instructions say that if you've got a really good shooting barrel, only use the lighter 3 grits 5 of the 3rd all of the 4 and 5. Half the bullets. I did that and still had a lot of throat errosion. Groups as good as it always did, cleans much easier and I can shot more before I have to clean. But I had to move my seating depth out about .03. Not sure what that means to the total life of the barrel.
Thanks for all the tips guys! I havenít had a chance to pick-up any of the GM top engine cleaner yet (should I get the liquid or spray?), but I was reading a can of Muzzleloader Wipeout and it said that it dissolved carbon....I gave it a spray, waited a little while and ran a nylon brush through it a few times and holy crap, you should have seen the black ugliness that came out of my barrel. It was almost embarrassing, I'm glad nobody was looking.
Thanks again! This website is the $hit!