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chamber snafu question for smiths

 
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  #8  
Old 11-03-2006, 09:07 PM
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Re: chamber snafu question for smiths

Hey Kirby and BlackDiamond and quick question for you guys.
When you chamber a barrel do you use a roughing reamer then the finish reamer or do you use an under sized drill to make the first cut?
the few barrels I chambered I used an undersized drill to rough the chamber area out then a small boring bar to get withing a few thousands and finaly the finish reamer , its a lengthy process but I've had realy good results thus far but I was wondering if theirs an easier way?
also what lathes do you guys use?
Slopish , sorry if I jacked you post
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  #9  
Old 11-03-2006, 10:28 PM
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Re: chamber snafu question for smiths

JDJones,

I use a carbide drill bit 40 thou smaller then the diameter of the shoulder of the finish reamer. I start by reaming the barrel blank until the reamer shoulder is cutting full diameter, then take a drill cut 0.300" deep. Then go back to the reamer.

I repeat this until the chamber is cut to proper depth. Drilling only 0.300" at a time allows the live pilot on the reamer to remain fully in contact with the bore as you ream yet still only have to ream around 20 thou larger in diameter then the predrilled hole.

There are many ways to skin the same cat. As long as the pilot always has full contact I would not say one way is better then any other.

I have a big Jet GH-1440ZX lathe. This is not their bench model but their 5200 lb model!!

Kirby Allen(50)
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  #10  
Old 11-03-2006, 11:32 PM
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Re: chamber snafu question for smiths

Fifty, it was the reamer as I had a chance to look at it today. It was a 4-d rental. The trailing edge on the reamer was ground incorrectly. This seems to be one of those things that teaches experience after the fact. Cutting speed was @ 105 rpms, plenty of cutting fluid. He took many passes and went slow. Now looking back he said he would see the flaw in the reamer and it is just one more thing to check before cutting commences. Here are some pictures I took for reference. Hopefully the resolution allows you guys to see the details. They immediatley shipped another reamer, it's the one on the right, the flawed one is on the left.Thanks for looking. [image][/image] [image][/image] [image][/image] [image][/image]
The irony in this situation is the second reamer they sent won't fit in the bore. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]
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  #11  
Old 11-04-2006, 09:13 AM
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Re: chamber snafu question for smiths

Slopish,

Thats good that the reamer had issues, another example of the crap shoot you take rented reamers.

It almost looks like someone had that reamer made with a built in chamber chamfer at the base of the reamer but it seems to be a bit to far forward and that would not work with all rifle types anyway.

Good he found the problem.

I am a bit sorry to see that the original reamer is a Live piloted reamer and the replacement is a solid piloted reamer. Generally the solid pilot reamers will not allow you to cut a chamber as perfectly aligned as you want as you can not fit the bushing perfectly to the bore diameter so there is some clearance between the nose of the solid pilot and bore.

Basically it looks like that original reamer has been whittled back far to many times and is in need or being retired. That damn throat section has got to be 2" long. That does nothing for stiffness of the reamer and at times can cause some harmonics to be generated in the reamer when cutting.

Hope it works out well for you.

Kirby Allen(50)
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Home of the Allen Magnum, Allen Xpress and Allen Tactical Wildcats and the Painkiller Muzzle brakes.

Farther, Faster and Flatter then ever before.

Web Page: www.apsrifles.com

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  #12  
Old 11-04-2006, 11:32 PM
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Re: chamber snafu question for smiths

JD,

I cut my chambers about the same way Kirby does. I have tried all methods from roughers to finish reamers to the undersized drill method, which is the fastest by far. Currently I use an Enco lathe i bought new in 77, before that i used a South Bend 10", it worked very good, but took more setup time.

Dave
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  #13  
Old 11-04-2006, 11:36 PM
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Re: chamber snafu question for smiths

Slophish,

I guess we all didn't get what you were talking about with the Crown in the chamber. I can see from the pics that reamer is no good. I dont like to rent reamers, you never know what your going to get. Allways get an removable pilot with several extra pilots so you can get it to fit right.

Dave
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  #14  
Old 11-05-2006, 12:26 AM
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Re: chamber snafu question for smiths

Slophish,
Sorry to hear about your frustrations.
I also agree with the guys that don't like to rent reamers. I personally will not rent a reamer other than from a buddy and I will also only use piloted reamers.You will probably be O.K with your gunsmith using the solid reamer as you will be following the chamber that was cut with the piloted reamer, that is if the correct pilot was used. If a customer whants me to chamber a rifle in a chamber that I really don't want to tie my money up into I will buy a new one and when a job is finished I resell it. Resale on a once used reamer is very good and I usually end up having no more into it than I would have renting it.

As far as how I chamber it is very similar to Kirby and Dave.I have built collets that slip over the barrel with a radius on the outside and then I chamber through the headstock chucking on the collet. The radiused collet eliminates stress on the barrel caused by the chuck and then I dial in the bore to within .0001 on both ends of the headstock, I then face and thread the end of the barrel Then like Kirby I start out with the finish reamer with the correct pilot until the case body portion of the reamer is approx. .100 recessed in and then I also go in with a bit. Depth depends on pilot to shoulder distance in that .300 -.400. I se a bald eagle floating reamer holder and depth of reamer plunge between cleanig varies depending onthe reamer...anywhere from .015-.040. I also encourage if you can find a gunsmith you can trust locally to stick with him as we all can make mistakes and as a gunsmith myself I will back up my work 100%
well, hope your project goes well. The 7MMRUM is an awesome caliber, in fact I have a 7MMRUM match throated for the heavy 7 mils, and it makes a heck of a nice long range hunting round.
FWIW,
308nate
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