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Chamber? Bolt face? or Dies?

 
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  #8  
Old 05-03-2005, 10:25 PM
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Re: Chamber? Bolt face? or Dies?

Brian - I hear what you are saying. 4ked and I determined that on his rifle that he can't reach the lands with a 168gr bullet and have it still seated in the case enough to keep it from falling out. I haven't tried that with mine, and I wouldn't be surprised if it was the same way. I can't wait until I either burn out this barrel or can come up with the $$$ to rebarrel and true the action.
Until then, I will try to get as much life out of the cases as possible.
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Old 05-04-2005, 12:03 AM
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Re: Chamber? Bolt face? or Dies?

After a brief discussion with GG I have decided to get the Redding S type bushing neck die and body die to help preserve my bulged brass. I am culling 25% of my fired brass after only 5 firings when FL sizing each time. This is working the brass like a dog and the webs are showing the thin band on the outside of some of them. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif[/img]

Do I actually have to rebarrel or can I have the chamber recut and set back? How much BBL length would I lose doing this. I am nowhere near burning up this BBL and I do get decent groups as it is.
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Old 05-04-2005, 04:33 PM
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Re: Chamber? Bolt face? or Dies?

[ QUOTE ]
Do I actually have to rebarrel or can I have the chamber recut and set back? How much BBL length would I lose doing this. I am nowhere near burning up this BBL and I do get decent groups as it is.

[/ QUOTE ]

You forgot to ask if it would be worth doing with a FACTORY barrel. I guess this would be based on what it would cost to do.
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Old 05-04-2005, 04:41 PM
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Re: Chamber? Bolt face? or Dies?

Didn't forget. Looking for the cheap way to get a tighter chamber. Just don't want to lose too many FPS.

I could ask if it would be a better idea to re cut it to a .308AI while we were in there. Would that preserve more BBL length since the cut is more outward (radial) than inward (down the bore)?
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Old 05-05-2005, 07:34 AM
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Re: Chamber? Bolt face? or Dies?

4ked Horn,

It all depends on the dimensions in your factory chamber. I would say taking off 1/2" would probably clean up the old chamber but I would not say for 100%. The problem is that your chamber is obviously very loose.

Most custom reamers, at least all mine are built to very min specs so what you have is a fat chamber that you are trying to clean up with a skinny reamer.

Anything I am rechambering a factory pipe I always recommend setting the barrel back enough to clean up the throat, leade and neck of the old chamber. This is where the vast majority of your accuracy potential comes from so I want everything freshly cut inthese areas.

For the AI rounds you have to set the barrel back slightly to clean up the factory shoulder/neck junction. If you only set the barrel back the min needed, you will generally get a step in the chamber neck which a combination of the old loose neck and the new correct dimensioned neck.

This another reason I recommend totally cleaning up the old chamber.

Yes, you will loose a bit more barrel, generally 1/2" but there are also other benefits.

First off, if you set the barrel back 1/2", you can rethread the factory barrel for that 1/2" which means you can get a much higher quality thread fit to the receiver.

Also, generally, the custom chamber will still produce more velocity even if you use the same chambering because the throat and neck are much more quality which will not only aid in accuracy but also slightly higher velocity.

To save the most barrel length and if your looking at wildcats, the 30-284 would be a very good choice as it would clean up the old chamber with no barrel set back except to clean up a very short section of factory chamber neck.

All in all, this is all major surgery and you really need to remember that after all this machining and money spent, you will still be left with a factory barrel.

Sometimes resutls can be dramatic if the barrel is quality and the accuracy robbing issues are with the machining.

Other times there will be hardly any difference in accuracy at all because the problem is in the barrel itself. I tell my customers this going into every factory barrel rechambering and accurizing. Generally you will see a noticable difference but at time it can be very small.

I do not particularily like spending my customers money on proceedures that will not provide known resullts. Hard for a customer to understand why the $400 he just dropped on his rifle only cut groups from 1 moa to 3/4 moa.

For best results I would say shoot the barrel as is and use a neck sizing die to save your brass. Save up for a quality aftermarket barrel and when you get it have the rifle completely accurized. IT is a MUCH better investment for your money then trying to use the factory barrel.

Good SHooting!!

Kirby Allen(50)
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  #13  
Old 05-05-2005, 09:10 AM
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Re: Chamber? Bolt face? or Dies?

Thanks for your thoughtful response. I have, at this point, a gun that shoots better than I do so I'm not looking to really get a ton more accuracy. If anything I would bee looking to save on brass and maybe get some more velocity. With what you said though I'm sure I could buy quite a bit of brass and be content with my velocities for the money saved not reworking a factory BBL.

So thats what I'll do. I'll save up for the better dies and go from there.

One last question though. And it may be a quasi-stupid question. Since Al and I are essentially fire forming our brass to a fat chamber, and will soon be neck sizing, should we rework our max loads for the new case capacity to seek another "accuracy node"? Or is the slight expansion to a SAMMI spec chamber of little consequence in getting more useable velocity?
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