Re: Bullet seating depth the easy way
Yah Auzzie, I had too many headaches when I did it Harvey's way and my groups wouldn't be quite as good when I went to a different box. HOWEVER, you have found the right starting point for a certain bullet. It is good to start just as yoiu have mentioned, use a bullet comparator to measure the seating depth to the ogive, and record. Then vary seating depth until you hiut the sweat spot. Even if the bullet profile for a certain bullet changes slightly from lot to lot, use the same length measured with the bullet comparator and most every time your groups will be as good as they can, and you don't have to do all the laborious steps that you had mentioned for each lot of bullets. I however am a very big fan of finding one load, confirming it at least a couple times, and then going and buying several boxes of bullets from the same lot and a 5 or 8 lb keg of powder, the powder actually being the biggest deal because powder can change quite a bit from lot to lot. After buying the bulk, you may need to fudge with the powder charge slightly (not seating depth though) if your keg has a different lot number than the one you did your tests with, and you are good to go for many rounds (also, I have seen a big difference in brass from lot to lot so it is always good to buy enough to last at least as long as the number of components you have bought for the load. Ah, just buy 500 pieces to begin with and don't worry about the brass). Many guys say, and a few on this forum, say that when the brass work hardens, or if your brass has been neck sized after the first shot, you don't need as much powder for the load to obtain the same velocity. Well, there is something else that needs to be considered. After the brass has been fired once and neck sized, confirm with your chrony that you are at the same velocity. If not, you may need to lighten the charge a bit to bring it back down to the sweat spot.
"Buzzards gotta eat, same as worms" - Josey Wales