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Building a 6-.284

 
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  #1  
Old 05-06-2007, 08:08 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 48
Building a 6-.284

Hi Fella's
Need some suggestions this time around for building a 6-.284.
All my past builds are on Rem. 700 actions,wanting to go with a custom this time around.
Will be using 105-107 grain bullets.
28 inch Lilja,varmint contour,1-9 twist 6 groove?
Will be shooting off a bench,across the hood or in the field with a bi pod for Rock Chucks.
Nesika,Stiller,etc.,which way to go and model?
What is the purpose of having the port on the opposite side of the bolt on some models offered?

Selecting barrel twist from reading posts for some time,seems most favor the 9 and 8.5 twist for this application.Need to make a choice.

Thanks,Gary
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  #2  
Old 05-06-2007, 11:53 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Fort Shaw, Montana
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Re: Building a 6-.284

Your choice in barrel and twist is exactly what I would recommend.

Personally, for the type of rifle you are discribing I would go with a good single shot receiver. Once you get used to it you will never feel lacking with a single shot in the field and there are more benefits then disadvantages with the single shot.

If you were my customer coming to me, I would recommend either a Lawton M7500 single shot or a Borden Alpine single shot receiver. If you wanted a repeater, I would recommend a Borden Timberline receiver or a Neiska Bay.

The purpose of the weak side port is so that you can stay on the rifle and feed it with your weak hand without coming off the rifle with your trigger hand.

There are a couple ways to go here. YOu can get a left port, right bolt configuration that will be fed and eject from the left.

You can also get a left & right port with right bolt configuration which in most cases you will feed the rifle from the left and the cases will eject out the right.

If you go this route, make sure the ejection port is long enough to eject a live round. It can be a pain to have to pull the bolt to clear the rifle.

Personally I do not see much advantage with the dual port design and prefer just a single fed/eject port, right or left, up to you.

For a stock, I would go with a McMillan A-5 or a Manners MCS-T. They are perfect for bench shooting, bipod shooting or even offhand if you have to. Just great all around stocks.

I would also recommend a barrel contour of at least a #7 Lilja. This is basically the same as a Rem sendero contour but with a longer full diameter barrel shanke. If you want a bit less weight you could go with a fluted barrel.

Good shooting, you will really like this rifle.

Kirby Allen(50)
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Kirby Allen(50)

Allen Precision Shooting
Home of the Allen Magnum, Allen Xpress and Allen Tactical Wildcats and the Painkiller Muzzle brakes.

Farther, Faster and Flatter then ever before.

Web Page: www.apsrifles.com

allenmagnum@gmail.com
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  #3  
Old 05-06-2007, 08:48 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,651
Re: Building a 6-.284

Millerlite, I am building a 6x284 too. I am building my 6x284 for long range squirrel hunting. I am also bulding it to be very stable, so it's going to be heavy. I will shoot it off the bench or prone with Bi-pod. Here is what I would recommend for your project;

1. Action-Nesika Model K or L, or a BAT 8.5.

2. Barrel-30" or 28" Krieger or Lilja. I would go 30"

3. Twist Rate-1-8.5 or 1-9 depending on what barrel you choose.

4. Stock-McMillan A-5 or Tooley MBR.
If your going to be shooting off the bench a lot, I would go with the Tooley MBR. You can have a removable stud put on the MBR for Bi-pod use for shooting off the truck or shooting prone.

5. Trigger-Jewel or Shilien.
Both of these triggers are awesome. I like the Jewel trigger the best, it seems to break better for me.

6. Muzzle Brake-Vias or Holland.
Both are great brakes. However, I like the Vias the best. I think they tame the recoil better. Also, I mostly shoot off the bench, so I don't worry about blowing sand or dirt. The Holland is a good brake if your going to be shooting off the ground a lot. With the Holland brake, you wont have to worrie about blowing sand or dirt.

7. Scope Base-Davidson.

8. Scope Rings-Kelby.

9. Scope-Nightforce or Leupold.
I am a Nightforce Man but Leupolds are good scopes too. I would at least go with a Nightforce 5.5x22x56mm NXS or a Leupold 6x20x50mm LRT.

Regarding the twist rate for the 6x284. If you go with the Lilja, go with the 1-9 twist. + Kirby has done the research with this twist rate in the Lilja barrels, so he knows they work.

However, if you go with Krieger, go with the 1-8.5 twist. When I was ordering my Krieger Barrel, I originally wanted the 1-9 twsit. However, Krieger recommended a 1-8.5 twist over the 1-9 for the 6x284 using 105 and 107grn bullets. They said the 1-8.5 twist is working very well with 105 and 107grn bullets.

Regarding Action, I've used both Nesika and BAT. They are both awesome actions so no matter what one you choose, you will be very happy. I chose the Nesika Model L with a 1.700 diameter for support for my large barrel.

Here are the specs for my 6x284;
1. 6x284 Match Chamber for Lapua Brass w/.272 tight neck.

2. Nesika Model L, 1.700 Dia. Fluted Bolt, Tac. Bolt Knob.

3. Krieger 30", 1.8.5 Twist, 1.450 Straight Cylinder, throated for the 105 and 107grn bullets.

4. McMillan Tooley MBR, 5 Pounds Lead added to rear, removable stud for bi-pod use.

5. Jewel 2oz Trigger.

6. Vias Muzzle Brake.

7. Davidson Scope Base with 20MOA Added.

8. Kelby 30mm Rings.

9. Nightforce 12x42x56 NXS with MLR Reticle.

10. Overall weight will be 31 pounds.

As you can see, I am going with a pretty heavy rig. I will be shooting of the bench most of the time, so I want it to be very stable. Trying to hit these small ground squirrels at 1000 yards is pretty tuff, so I need this rig to be stable which will allow me to view my misses through the scope.

Regarding bullet choice, I am going to focus on using the Lapua 105grn Silver Scenar with a BC of .530. The Silver Scenar is a moly coated bullet. I've heard and read that this bullet is perfoming very well. There is a good article on 6mmBR.com about the Lapua Scenar. I am looking to push this bullet between 3200 and 3300fps.

Regarding powder, I am looking at the following three, Vhitavoria N160, Reloader 22, or Reloader 19. I've used Vhitavoria before and it worked real well.

Regarding Brass choice, Lapua is the best brass for the 6x284. Norma makes brass too, however, the Lapua Brass is much better.

Anyhow, if you have any questions, you can e-mail me at;
wildcat@highdesert.com.

Please, keep us informed about your project. Your going to love the 6x284 for varminting.

Wildcat
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  #4  
Old 05-06-2007, 09:20 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 48
Re: Building a 6-.284

Kirby,thanks for your input,very much received.
I forgot to mention, that I intended to use a single shot this time around which would be a first for me,can't see why I'd need a repeater for this set up and you have confirmed that for me.
You also sparked the A5 for me.I actually was considering it along with a couple other McMillians that I already own.In the past,McMillian has sent me a "blank"to see if I'd like that particular style for fit and feel,looks like a blank of the A5 is in order!
So with the two actions you mentioned,no further tweaking,fine tuning is needed to the action and firing pin?
Ready to go as is,guess that's what a guy is paying for, right?
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  #5  
Old 05-06-2007, 09:25 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 48
Re: Building a 6-.284

Thanks Wildcat for your info,been following your earlier posts on your project,I will be in touch.
Thanks,Gary
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  #6  
Old 05-07-2007, 08:19 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Fort Shaw, Montana
Posts: 6,796
Re: Building a 6-.284

Yep, its best to get componants that are ready to go with out of the box.

As far as barrel recommendations, if you call up Dan Lilja and ask what barrel he recommends for a 6-284, I would bet he will recommend a 1-8 twist. Conventional wisdom tells you a 105-107 gr 6mm bullet needs a 1-8 to 1-8.5 twist.

Practical wisdom with this round says that 1-9 6 grooves are what you want to use because of the velocity potential. If you want to use the 107 gr SMK, any barrel from a 1-8 3 groove on up to a 1-9 6 groove will work because they have a heavier jacket.

If you plan on using the 105 gr A-Max or Berger VLD, I suspect the Krieger 1-8.5 will tear bullets apart at the velocity potential of the 6-284.

Again, if you want to down load thats fine but most that get a 6-284 do so for the high velocity potential with heavy bullets. IF you want to down load go why not just go with a 243 AI?

Just my opinion on what I have tested and know to work. The barrel makers will recommend a twist rate that will work with all 6mm chamberings, you need a more specialized recommendation for your project.

Take it for what you will.

Kirby Allen(50)
__________________
Kirby Allen(50)

Allen Precision Shooting
Home of the Allen Magnum, Allen Xpress and Allen Tactical Wildcats and the Painkiller Muzzle brakes.

Farther, Faster and Flatter then ever before.

Web Page: www.apsrifles.com

allenmagnum@gmail.com
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  #7  
Old 05-25-2007, 09:06 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Magnolia, Texas
Posts: 16
Re: Building a 6-.284

I have 2 Nesika L model actions, and 2 BAT MB actions. I prefer the BAT actions. The overall fit & finish seems to be better. However any custom action will be much better than a factory action.

I varmint hunt only, no competition and I prefer a right bolt, left port configuration. All of my long range shots are off a bench, so the left port allows me to stay on target by looking thru the scope and simutainously ejecting a round and then loading another thru the left port without moving my head positon. The only down side to a left port is in the rare chance a round explodes in the chamber your face is right there to receive any shrapnel....

If you were in competition then a dual port would allow you to eject from the right side and load from the left at the same time. Some guys can fire 10 rounds in 30 seconds with this method.

I have have gone thru 7 6mmx284 barrels over the years. Lilja was my original barrel, but I have since tried Kreiger barrels and those are the ones I prefer. Mainly because they seem to require less cleaning. I get varmint accuracy for about 1200 rounds and then I get a new barrel.

I dont shoot the VLD's anymore. I shoot the 75g Vmax at 4200fps, and I am accurate out to probably 900yds. I get 2" groups at 600yds. I have not shot at 1000yds (no Range locally) but I did get a coyote at 843yds last year. After using VLD's for several years I found they do well on prarrie dogs because their body mass is so fragile/small. On ground hogs they are terrible in my opinion. A good hit on a hog will put a tiny pencil hole through them and they crawl back to the hole easily, but with a 75g Vmax it anchors them where they stand. Very few if any make it back to their hole. I use a 1-14 twist, 30" Kreiger in a 1.250 straight cylinder barrel.

The weight of my rifle is 21 lbs, and I dont use a muzzle brake its just too loud even with ear plugs and headsets. I can see bullet impact just fine. I believe you can easily loose your hearing if you shoot alot.

I have tried aroud 20 different stocks, and my favorite is the F-class stock from MasterClass. Laminated wood is best for me, but they also have them in glass. I have the 3 way adjustable butt plate and cheek peice. They have a full toe (flat)on the bottom of butt, and a 3" flat with rails on the front. With this amount of adjustability it rides the bags like a true benchrest stock, and can also be used in the prone position with a few adjustments to the butt and cheek peice.

Hope this helped
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