The gunslick foam, to my surprise, worked better, substantially, over wipeout.
Ditto! Provided I have the time for it to work.
I then follow with Butch's Bore shine. Final coat of Tetra gun oil or Lock-Eze.
When I'm cleaning a rifle for someone who was never really versed in the cleaning process I find CR-10 from Barnes is usually needed. Just have to stay with it in the carbon steel barrels and always finish with a few Hoppe's #9 patches.
Be carefull with anything not designed for firearms. These products are made to be used on and around firearm stocks, finishes, bedding, etc. Top engine cleaner has been known to disolve or turn to a pourous foam, your glass bedding and I cant imagine it's any good if it comes in contact with a fiberglass stock.
I use Hoppe's No. 9 for powder/carbon removal and for copper, Hoppe's Bench Rest on my 'good' barrels and Barnes 10X on the more stubborn ones. A hand finish lapped barrel doesn't usually need a very agressive copper solvent, but it certainly make short work of cleaning!
Remember to always dry the bore between cleaners (that are not KNOWN compatible) as some could have poor reactions with others.
Coppermelt for copper, Prolix for powder and then afterwards for final finish.
Unfortunately, I'm down to my last bottle of Coppermelt.
Yep! I have tried them all and nothing touches Coppermelt. When my supply runs out, I'm going to be one said boy!
I have been using Bore tech Eliminator to save my Coppermelt and have liked it very much. I use it inbetween relays in competition and it is the only solvent that cleans copper, carbon, and powder residue in the short time we have to clean our rifles. Plus it smells nice and has no distillates. There's a rumor that there's something even better coming out soon from the guys at Bore tech! Keep our ears to the ground.......