Thansk for the tip. As I mentioned in my first post, I do currently have a rifle that is great to carry. But I am just no longer happy with it. I know that it will get the job done out to 300 yards or so with elk, but I want something that will reach out a little further. That is why I am thinking of either buying a new rifle or just rebarreling the one that I have. I just wanted to know about the pros/cons of a stainless steel barrel. I can spend about $400 right now, so I was thinking of just ordering in a new rifle. Then I could sell my current one and then use the money from that to finish paying off the new gun and then buy a stock an dies. I just do not like the idea of being without a rifle, that's all. And I am just trying to figure out my options.
Dulce et decorum est pro patria mori
If you already have a rifle that will get the job done until the full custom is ready, I would suggest spending that $400 on a barrel, but leave it blank. Unthreaded, unchambered, and maybe uncontoured.
First, leaving it as a blank will save you some cash in the short run. Second, as you aquire the major peices of your new rifle, you may change your mind on things like chamber, contour, etc.
As time goes on, and more cash frees up, get the next bit, but do'nt try and make a rifle out of all the bits just yet. Save them until you can pay for the last bit, custom gunsmithing service to assemble your new ultimate rifle!
Any good gunsmith that has the machinery to chamber has the machinery to contour. All it takes is a good lathe and some patience. Since it will be fully heat treated before thish it shouldn't move during the operation. However, if you do this, go with Krieger. Their barrels are as good as any, and the cut rifling won't induce stresses that can caue warpage in supsequent machining. I have heard of problems with button rifled barrels warping if they are recontoured later. Not to say you will neccessarily have a problem, but why chance it?
If you prefer a barrel by a maker who button rifles, have them do the contour, but not the chamber, threads or crown.
Dzaw, thanks for the info, but this now brings up another question. I beleive that I seen a few threads around arguing over which is better, but what I want to know is what is the DIFFERENCE between cut and button rifling? I am sure that they both have pros and cons vs each other, but I am not wanting to start a fire at this point, so I will steer away from asking that question. Thanks again.
Dulce et decorum est pro patria mori
A buttoned rifled barrel has the hole bored in the barrel then a series of carbide buttones with the reverse groove pattern is either pushed or pulled through the bore actualy "ironing" or pressing the grooves into the barrel.
A cut rifles barrel has its grooves cut with a broach so that their is actualy metal being removed one small pass at a time.
Which is better? who knows , the cut rifled fans say that the buttoned barrels have to much stress in them and wear faster , and the buttoned fans say that the steel in the cut barrels is to soft and wears faster.
Both types when made by a quality barrel maker are usualy threated in some way or anouter for the stress wether is be heat or cryogenic and all the quality barrel makers lap their barrels to make sure that the bore diameter is uniform and most of the tool marks are removed.
Both cut and buttoned rifled barrel makers have made their mark in the record books for accuracy sake.
Its more or less a Ford vs Chevy type deal both have their great points and both have their negitives I guess.
I have never seen any hard data that says one if more accurate or last longer than the other.
No fire to start here, Mr. Jones hit it right on the head. The only reason I suggested cut over button is not due to any superior quality, only that it might be better suited to being recontoured at a later date.