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barrel installation/tightening

 
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  #1  
Old 08-26-2004, 10:13 PM
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barrel installation/tightening

I'm having a smith pull my barrel but I would like to reinstall same barrel myself after some mods. I've got the book "Accurizing the Factory Rifle" but it seems to gloss over this procedure somewhat. What procedure for barrel installation/tightening are you folks using?

Thanks,

Jon Denham
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  #2  
Old 08-26-2004, 10:53 PM
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Re: barrel installation/tightening

Jon,

It really depend on what barrel modifications you plan on doing. As a gunsmith, recommending things to a non smith can get a little dangerous.

What are you planning to modify on your barrel and then I will try to give you an idea.

Basically, I retighten my barrels to around 50-60 ft/lbs of torque. Many factory barrels are tightened to +100 ft/lbs and require special barrel presses and action wrenches.

Overtightening is a major problem in rifle in accuracy but knowing what is enough and what is not is the all critical aspect to staying health and keeping your rifles operating properly.

It all depends on what you are changing with your barrel shile it is off the action.

Good SHooting!!

Kirby Allen(50)
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Kirby Allen(50)

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  #3  
Old 08-26-2004, 11:15 PM
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Re: barrel installation/tightening

This is a Rem 700 LSS in 300RUM. I'm just lapping the barrel/receiver then the bolt lugs (Brownells tool) and reinstalling. "Accurizing..." talks about reinstalling barrels "hand tight" but doesn't seem to give more specific information, which seemed kind of odd to me.

Thanks for your help,

Jon Denham
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In the beginning God created the heavens and the earth. Genesis 1:1

"And can the liberties of a nation be thought secure when we have removed their only firm basis, a conviction in the minds of the people that these liberties are the gift of God?" Thomas Jefferson - Notes on the State of Virginia

www.wildsidesystems.com - Shelter for Your WildSide - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYwgo...&feature=g-upl
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  #4  
Old 08-27-2004, 07:21 AM
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Re: barrel installation/tightening

Jon,

You will need to keep an eye on your headspace measurement when lapping the receiver face/barrel shoulder and especially the bolt lugs.

If done correctly, one can lap the same amount off the receiver/barrel as well as the bolt lugs so that headspace will stay consistant.

You can even slightly tighten your headspace up a bit with these proceedures but you can also increase your headspace if you do not know what your doing creating a dangerous situation.

Also remember that anytime you play with the receiver/shoulder length, your barrel is going to tighten down in a different location then original factory position so your barrel stamping will be off, how much depends on how much metal is removed during lapping.

Really, you should only be looking to take off 0.001" to 0.002" during lapping. If you need to take much more then this off to square things up, you whould really have things squared in a lathe by a smith.

Also, remember that your rifles headspace is set where it was tightened by the factory. Unfortunately, the factories use barrel tighening as a way to adjust headspace dimensions which is the poorest form of workmanship on a rifle.

But this is how it is and Rem can be as bad as any for this. So remember that if you do not get the barrel tightened back to its original point, your headspace may be loose to start with.

One other thing to remember when lapping your bolt lugs, make for damn sure you get all the lapping compound completely out of the bolt and reciever.

If you don't and fire the rifle, even with a minute amount of compound in the bolt or reciever, this compound will blow up into your chamber upon firing and give your chamber a frosted finish, then it will need to be repolished and that should be done on a lathe to do it accurately.

As far as hand tightening your rifle barrel, I would highly recommend you do not do this with a 300 RUM.

BR shooters can get away with this because they shoot small rounds with generally short light target bullets.

The 300 RUM creates enough torque as the bullet is driven down the bore to possibly cause some problems. Get it tight to at least 50 ft/lbs and I perfer 60 ft/lbs on a big game rifle in a round such as this.

The biggest thing is to know your limitations and if you are second guessing any of this work, take it to your accuracy minded smith and let them square up the rifle for you.

I get several rifles a year that have been home accurized and they need to be readjusted to proper headspace.

I am not saying that these things can not be done at home, only that you need to know what your doing to do it correctly and safely.

Good Shooting!!!

Kirby Allen(50)
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Kirby Allen(50)

Allen Precision Shooting
Home of the Allen Magnum, Allen Xpress and Allen Tactical Wildcats and the Painkiller Muzzle brakes.

Farther, Faster and Flatter then ever before.

Web Page: www.apsrifles.com

allenmagnum@gmail.com
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  #5  
Old 08-27-2004, 10:06 AM
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Re: barrel installation/tightening

Thanks for the info, Fiftydriver. My smith charges $15 to put the barrel back on so...you know, I just like tinkering. I am aware of the headspace issue. I'm trying to think of a way to use my torque wrench to tighten to spec...maybe I can modify a socket that'll fit in the action and torque on one of the action lugs (use some elect. tape to protec surfaces) and then use an extension where the bolt would be out the back of the action to my torque wrench. 50-60 ft. lbs. isn't that awful much. What do you think?

Thanks again,

Jon Denham
__________________
In the beginning God created the heavens and the earth. Genesis 1:1

"And can the liberties of a nation be thought secure when we have removed their only firm basis, a conviction in the minds of the people that these liberties are the gift of God?" Thomas Jefferson - Notes on the State of Virginia

www.wildsidesystems.com - Shelter for Your WildSide - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYwgo...&feature=g-upl
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  #6  
Old 08-27-2004, 12:12 PM
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Re: barrel installation/tightening

You can buy an action wrench pretty cheaply and use your torque wrench on the back of it.If you just use a strap wrench or pipe wrench with tape you'll bend your action.The only thing you accomplish by torquing the barrel on is a little bit of pre-load or stretch that keeps it from backing off under a load as Fiftydriver has pointed out.Get the action wrench first then do your tinkering or the action will be toast.
Lynn
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  #7  
Old 08-27-2004, 01:28 PM
LB LB is offline
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Re: barrel installation/tightening

I don't think it is advisable to remove the barrel, in this case. Saving the fifteen dollars is even less advisable.

But, if you still feel the need, you will be better off if you get a specific action wrench and barrel vice, from a place like Brownell's.

Good luck, LB
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