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Barrel Breakin

 
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  #1  
Old 04-08-2009, 12:46 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2009
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Barrel Breakin

Hi, I'm a new member and just picked up a new rifle. I came across this site and there seems to be a lot of knowledgable people here.
I bought a Tikka T3 lite SS in 270 WSM topped with Nikon Buckmaster 3x9.
What is the best method of breaking in the barrel? I hope to have a shooter here and want to follow the best breakin proceedure. Oh, and I do reload if that has any bearing on breakin methods.

Thanks, Bryan
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  #2  
Old 04-08-2009, 03:21 AM
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Location: The rifle range, or archery range or behind the computer in Alaska
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Re: Barrel Breakin

My opinion is that (at least for a barrel burner) the second shot has less accuracy potential than the first. So on and so forth. Clean it, shoot it, be happy. Dont waste your barrel on break in. The 270 WSM I dont think is extreemly hard on barrels but probably isnt that easy on them either.
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  #3  
Old 04-08-2009, 04:46 AM
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Re: Barrel Breakin

Most factory barrels are not lapped and tend to accumulate copper deposits. Sometimes after a few hundred rounds, most of the copper disappears. Custom barrels require very little break in. I still adhere to the old shoot one, clean, shoot two clean, shoot three. . . .initially, stopping after 20 shots. That removes very little life from the barrel.

Read Dan Lilja's recommendations at: Lilja Precision Rifle Barrels
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Old 04-08-2009, 05:40 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Canberra, Australia
Posts: 111
Re: Barrel Breakin

I have purchased a Remington Senero SFII in 300 RUM about 2 months ago a did a fair bit of reading on the topic.

I settled on shoot one, clean one for the first ten with starting loads listed in manuals then just get into working up a load.

I moly coat all my bullets and did this from the begining.

Most of what I read said if you get this right it will be easier to clean later.

I could not get my riffle to shoot accuratly (under 0.3moa at 100m) until I put about 100 rounds through. I did notice the Remington barrel was rough as in comparison to my Sako 75.
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Old 04-08-2009, 10:33 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2009
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Re: Barrel Breakin

Thanks gentlemen for your input. I'll be using this rifle for mule deer in high open desert terrain and anticipate some long range shots. I plan to develope some loads using 130 gr. bonded bullets starting with Win. 780 supreme and hope for 1/2 MOA or so.
I came across this interesting article on breakin. www.snipercountry.com/Articles/Barrel_breakin_II.asp_
Sounds like it may avoid barrel wear issues. I think I'll try it. I know I don't have a custom competition barrel here but I would like to have as much accuracy as possible. There are probably as many theorys on breakin as there are barrels out there.
Thanks again gents.
Bryan ( Well I noticed the link does'nt open. The method basically calls for "burnishing" the barrel
using moly powder on a patch wrapped brush applying several hundred strokes in a rapid
movement. This is supposed to burnish the barrel filling in microscopic voids with moly.)

Last edited by Tbolt; 04-08-2009 at 11:23 AM.
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  #6  
Old 04-09-2009, 08:00 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 848
Re: Barrel Breakin

TBOLT,
If the 130's don't work, try the 140 accubonds. I've had great success with them. Taken deer at 350 and 600yds. Very good performance and accuracy.
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  #7  
Old 04-09-2009, 10:51 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 7
Re: Barrel Breakin

Thanks Rockz, I will be trying the 140 Acubond in the future as I hear great things about them. I just picked up some CCI 250 primers today and have some Win 760, 110 gr. V-max , 130 gr. and 150 gr. Hornady Interbonds. I may pick up some Win 780 supreme or Magpro for the heavier bullets But I'm having a heck of a time finding components right now. Those CCIs cost me almost 38.00 for a thousand and it was the last box on the shelf. Any info on first hand experience with powder would be appreciated.
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