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Is barrel break-in really needed for factory guns?

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Unread 01-14-2005, 09:57 AM
Silver Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: The Grassy Knoll
Posts: 229
Re: Is barrel break-in really needed for factory guns?

Jim, thanks for that info. I blacksmith as a part-time hobby/business and that explanation puts it into a perspective that makes sense. Never thought of it the way you put it but should have. I've experienced the same thing at the forge when taking a heat.
Heavier stock takes more time to heat up to temp, thin stock (the ridges) melts/burns/moves long before the heavier.
Now if I could get my peddinghaus hammer to fit into the chamber I could skip the break-in... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]
Thanks again. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]
Member: The Red Mist Culture
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Unread 01-14-2005, 10:44 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,013
Re: Is barrel break-in really needed for factory guns?

They had that break-in method on their website when I spoke to them. The told me over the phone.

Call Jim or Frank at Krieger and see what they say now.

[/ QUOTE ] I don't think alot know about those ridges caused by chambering and Kriegers reason for clean for the first five is to cut down on the layering of copper. Doesn't matter if factory or custom still have those ridges. In my other post I talk about removing the brush after it's passed out the bore. Just my .02
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Unread 01-14-2005, 08:58 PM
Posts: n/a
Re: Is barrel break-in really needed for factory guns?

I bought a 6mm barrel from Dan Lilja and it was hand lapped and had a saw cut for the point at which it could be finished at the front end. Dan told me that lapping will Bellmouth either end and the chamber end will take care of that end, the saw cut takes care of the other.The new barrel was subjected to about 20 rounds of break in and when it cleaned up quicker at the end I quit. It was a useful time as I was fireforming any way and the barrel never got overheated.
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Unread 01-15-2005, 01:17 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: on the rifle range in Utah
Posts: 2,704
Re: Is barrel break-in really needed for factory guns?

Waltech Jim,
Your experience speaks for itself. Excellent post! I agree wholeheartedly. I have looked at barrels with a borescope that were broke in properly compared to guns that were just "shot" and the view was staggering. It definetly makes a difference on a molecular level.
And still, none of the naysayers of barrel break-in have answered my question of why does the barrel all of a sudden get smoother and clean faster on the ??teenth shot.
Find it
Range it
Click it
Pull it
Dump it

If it's not far, it's boring.
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Unread 01-15-2005, 03:10 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 528
Re: Is barrel break-in really needed for factory guns?

I'm buying a used Tikka Varmint in .308 and I'm planning to use Dave Tubb's Final Finsh system on it even though it has 75 rounds through it already. According to Dave Tubbs as well as Chuck Hawk's websites I should get better accuracy, lower barrel pressures (due to lower friction) and longer barrel life (all things being equal) if I do. Anyone have any reason to believe otherwise?

Matt Roth (New to LR hunting)

[/ QUOTE ]

Welcome to LRH, Matt.

I dont buy every product that comes down the pipe.(Even though my wife say's I do [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img])

But, Tubbs Final Finish is one I would like to take a harder look at.

If and when you try that system out, would you please post back here and let us know what you think of it??

I have never been an big break in guy. BUT...I did break in my VS .308 "by the book" and must say that it cleans up in a snap and is deadly accurate...sakofan..FWIW [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]
It's only rock and roll....But I like it!
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Unread 01-16-2005, 10:30 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 308
Re: Is barrel break-in really needed for factory guns?

Thanks for the welcome guys. I've been lurking, listening and learning a little for a few months.

To reply in part to Skinny Shooter, I've done a little reading about the Tubbs system and it appears to me that their system is different enough and more gentle than fire lapping a barrel and you tend to get a noticeable improvement in accuracy. Why would anyone want their barrel hand lapped? I suspect the reasons are similar, with the exception that it doesn't take expert "feel" to lap the barrel with the Tubb's system. The Tubb's system appears to be effective for new rifles as well as rifles with a substantial number of rounds through them. Of course, this is other people's experience. So far I haven't heard anything against using the Tubbs system either.

What I would really like to do is take a rig or two and look at the profile of the rifling and microstructure of the steel for a barrel using a more traditional break in and one using the Tubbs system. But that means I'd have to hack up the barrel, do some metallurgy prep on the samples and get a decent microscope. Anyone want to offer up a barrel or two??? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

Oh well, I'm just starting to get back into shooting anything other than my bow and my mouth off. Good questions and I'll at least stick a borescope down and try to take a few amatuer pics for before and after. If I see a lot of copper I'll also note the difference in cleanup times before and after as well.

Matt Roth
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Unread 01-17-2005, 08:36 AM
Silver Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: McKinney TX
Posts: 408
Re: Is barrel break-in really needed for factory guns?

Just got back from a weekend deer hunt and started reading this thread.

Barrel break-in is a total crock of s**t and waste of your time. Gale McMillian hit the nail square on the head with his explanation.

I also respect Tubb's for his shooting, but fire lapping a barrel, come on folks think this process out logically. It theoretically can't do what it claims to do.

The bullet contact surface in the barrel is only so big. It's like trying to wax your entire car with just a tinny dab of wax and starting over at the exact same place each time you apply more wax to applicator. You just can't cover the entire car or even come close, but you get a nice shinny surface at the starting point.

Same thing with trying to use fire lapping compound coated bullets down your barrel. You get a nice smooth polished area and now an oversized throat area and not much polishing beyond that. Fire-lapping will open up and change your throat dimensions and maybe polish the next 2 or 3 inches of your barrel. Remember the whole bullet is coated with lapping compound, but only the bullets contact surface that is coated with compound will polish your bore. Thatís maybe 10 to 20% of the entire bullet depending on bullet design.

In the end with any barrel all you need is a good burnish in the barrel. You get that by shooting off rounds. I like to spend my time at the range shooting, not cleaning.

And think back, our parents and grandparents didn't do any barrel break-ins on their guns and you don't hear them tell stories of ruining their factory barrels because they didnít shoot and clean, shoot and clean.

Just my $0.02 worth.

Mathew 5:16

Distance is not an issue, but the wind will make it interesting!
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