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Barrel block question

 
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  #1  
Old 12-02-2007, 02:21 PM
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Barrel block question

Hi guys
I'm new to this forum and I'm looking for opinions on using a barrel block/or not on a 34" 1.45 krieger screwed to a 10" bat on a Mcmillan 50 HBR stock chambered in a .338 Lapua Improved. I would like to use the rifle not so much as a competitive HG but as a boulder plinker in VT. I have a home in northern VT and behind the house are 3 flat faced rock drops ranging 1250 1500 and 1800 yards roughly. I want to shoot at them and also would like to use it to hunt a couple of very long clear cuts just north of the house. I have three real nice areas where I can tuck into some soft wood and set up a portable bench I bought from a gentlemen named Stukey. Bat said it would be marginal in re: to the block. Any of your opinions would be greatly appreciated.
Vinny
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  #2  
Old 12-02-2007, 04:01 PM
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I have nearly an identical rifle that does have a 9" barrel block. my barrel was 36" but the throat seemed to firecrack prematurely, leaving me and others to speculate the worth of a barrel block.
A gunsmith on this site (Fiftydriver) has built similar rifles with no block.
BAT claims their actions are strong enough that it is not necessary.
At the very least you would need a very strong bedding job.
UB
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  #3  
Old 12-02-2007, 04:41 PM
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I have a couple 338 Lapua imp rifles one with a 10" Bat actions and a 34" 1.450 barrel the black one in the pic http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1196631039
The barrel is tapered and It shoots good I also have one with a 10" bat that has a block, the aluminum stocked one it has a 1.400 barrel no taper 32" long and also shoots good.
The other one in the pic is my LG 17 pounds I used it for a deer at 2042 yards and a couple elk at long range.
I think you would be ok either way but if you go with out a block I would put a taper on the barrel.
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Old 12-02-2007, 04:57 PM
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UncleB
Could you explain to me "throat seemed to firecrack prematurely, leaving me and others to speculate the worth of a barrel block". How would a block effect firecracking, I don't undertsand?
ewallace
Thats Bruces rest system and if I'm not mistaken it looks like his HG stock. Those are Beautiful rifles! The second gun, thumb hole stock looks just like mine only a different color mine is chambered in a 308 Baer. How did you attach the bipod to the bottom of the flat?
Thanks

Last edited by vinny; 12-02-2007 at 06:53 PM.
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  #5  
Old 12-02-2007, 05:21 PM
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use a block

hi I have a riflw with a custom alloy stock and the block is part of the stock and it is awsome I made the stock for F Class and the block is only 4"long but the barrel is also only a #7 profile with 6 of knox.

Cheers Bill
Australia
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  #6  
Old 12-03-2007, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinny View Post
UncleB
Could you explain to me "throat seemed to firecrack prematurely, leaving me and others to speculate the worth of a barrel block". How would a block effect firecracking, I don't undertsand?
ewallace
Thats Bruces rest system and if I'm not mistaken it looks like his HG stock. Those are Beautiful rifles! The second gun, thumb hole stock looks just like mine only a different color mine is chambered in a 308 Baer. How did you attach the bipod to the bottom of the flat?
Thanks
You are correct it is a Bear HG aluminum stock and the LG is also a Bear stock. I just use a long sling stud and a lot of torque on the clamping mechanism on the bipod. I have a 30 Nawakwa barrel for the LG it is based on the 338 LM shortened and imp, and 2 6.5/284 barrels and a (375/408CT barrel not here yet) for the HG

pics of cases
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...g?t=1196694668
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  #7  
Old 12-03-2007, 11:05 AM
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Posts: 352
Vinny,
I've been around the long range competition game for quite awhile. I have shot and own all 3 bedding methods (split block, glued sleeve, and std barrel floating) and knowing your application of primarily for hunting at a much slower rate of fire you will never be able to tell the difference in the bedding method. So I would go with the std method knowing you are using the 2"x10" BAT action. My current HG is setup just this way. I use to shoot a 338 Yogi with a 1.850" dia x 32" untapered barrel bedded this way on my BAT 2x10 action without a problem.

Each different method simply gives you different tuning nodes. When you tune to that node they all work. When your not tuned none of them are worth a hill of beans. There are theories about which are easier to tune up... but nobody could shoot enough ammo to statisically prove or disprove the theories anyway. So it all boils down to opinion and speculation.

But one important point that ewallace has already pointed out is putting a taper on the barrel. All my competition guns have tapers on them now and I won't build one without it going forward. I've seen enough data from the short range and long range BR game to say this is a benefit.
But the advantage of a tapered barrel isn't just reducing the stress of your barrel/action joint. The real advantages of this is your tuning nodes seem to be broader and it also moves the Cg of the whole rifle back so there is more weight on the butt section of the stock. This will reduce up/down tendancies of your rifle under recoil which in turn helps your groups. More weight on the butt section... the rifle is easier to shoot and will ride the bags better under recoil. That is turn means better groups down range.

I know a lot of guys don't like BR or any type of competition at all. But this is an example of one of the reasons why I love to also shoot in competition and not just plink/hunt at long range. You can gather a lot of data on certain situations very quickly by simply watching, asking, and listening at a match with 100s of guns being fired right in front of you. Then watch to match reports for the long term tendancies of whatever you were studying at the time.

Steve

PS - and having the added advantage of pulling a barrel off and installing another one in minutes is nice to have when usign the std bedding technique.
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