It absence of factory instructions....I'd be sure and work the barreled action into the stock evenly until you are sure it is bottomed out. Then tighten the front screw TIGHT. The rear tang should not be torqued. After snugging, and after the front recoil lug is tight, no more than half to three quarters of a turn, additional. If I had to guess, five to ten pounds? There may be a number of better plans out there, but that's how I do it.
There is a difference between primers sliding in noticably more easily, and being too loose so as to have to replace the brass.
If the primer is too loose, the gas could leak and cut the bolt face.
Do you see any leakage? brown/black around primer pocket?
Some of my best (accurate) loads will loosen the primer somewhat after 4 firings, but not need replacing until after 8.
A good test is to see if you can deprime (after priming and thinking it loose) just by hand, not with the press.
If it really goes in like butter after only 4 firing, check for other pressure signs. On the other hand if you buy 200 brass and get 1000 accurate shots, that's half the barrel life anyway, and might be acceptable to you. It depends if you can find an accurate load at lower pressures.
There is a possibility they did not cut the crown far enough back, if it was pitting at the muzzle...Also, they relapped the barrel...Not sure why or how this was done, there is a good chance you can 'flare' the muzzle end, or chamber end, whereever the lap is reversed...But I digress because wasn't in the shop when it was done, and I'm sure they know what they're doing up there in Cantadia...wonder if they crowned before or after it was lapped..Sometimes when recrowning a factory barrel, the barrel is soooo bent it's hard to get a concentric crown, so you end up cutting more off one side then the next...Or you end up with a bit of metal burred up in the corner of the crown..I'll usually push a lap thru after the crown...Push or pull only, not push and pull..
Check velocities, watch for huge spreads, if you have your handy dandy cracker jack magnifier check the corners of the land/groove intersection, make sure they are still sharp and even...
Don't bother slugging the factory barrel, they don't come uniform..
And last but not least, have a word with PGW and not the online genies...They'll let you know what to do...I get a kick out of the guys that sit and stew all day over what ends up to be a simple solution to the problem, get home and let it out on the internet...When all you had to do was ring the smith/barrelmaker and it's sorted..Ha..Good luck mate..
If you use a live piloted crown cutting tool there is no chance to get teh crown out of alignment with the axis of the bore as long as you use the correct bushing to fit the bore perfectly and use a floating reamer holder to drive teh crown cutter.
If the cutter is sharp, there will be no burrs and with the use of the correct sized bushing, it does not matter if the bore is centered in the barrel, the cutter will center of the bore perfectly anyway.
I have rarely found mild pitting in the grooves to effect accuracy over 25 shots or so. If the lands are pitted badly this can be a different case but since the rifle was shooting very well for a factory rifle, I feel the pits were a cosmetic flaw more then an accuracy flaw.
Just my opinion, as you said, I am sure the boys at PGW's had a good reason to do what they did to the barrel. Its just hard to guess about it without all the information they had when they had the barrel in front of them.
Allen Precision Shooting
Home of the Allen Magnum, Allen Xpress and Allen Tactical Wildcats and the Painkiller Muzzle brakes.
Not like I do this for a living or nothin..Have seen a barrel or two..There are things barrelmakers see that smiths don't, see...I don't trust anything that doesnt read '0' on a dial indicator, and mine come in tenths...I don't take for granted the tooling is going to work as it should unless I made the tooling myself..But yes I agree with you in the concept, it's the application...One thing is for sure, custom barrels are more pleasureable to work with than factory..
JR, I get the gist of your message is that the online genies, or, as I prefer; Internet Gurus, [img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img] offer advice that has no value. Well, CBS might have thought they were smarter than the bloggers that busted their expose as a hatchet job. There is a wide range of talent available, on these boards.
But anyway. To discount the assembled membership, and their opinions as worthless is not too smart. What if the shop just blew him off, and advised him to work up another load? It wouldn't be the first time someone received casual advice over the phone.
Maybe they could have fired a couple of groups with the same load that was grouping so nicely, before the alterations? Kind of a "control group". Raised flags, or not?
My personal opinion is that there is a vast resource available via the Internet, on any number of subjects, from gardening to rock climbing, and many ARE experts...actually! (myself, not included: I'm just a hobbiest)
I join you in wishing this gentleman "good luck". LB