I did a little bit of shooting/testing today as well. This time I was sighting in my 220 swift with 55g FMJ's. I put a 200 yard zero on it, then busted some 1 liters at 300, then some 2 liters at 500. There going 3900fps, giving me .25" at 100 for 3 shots, and 1 inch groups at 300. I will try these on a yote, but if they run off, I"ll be switching back to my original yote buster, the 55g btip at 3925fps. I want to see if the FMJ's will kill them, so I can skin a couple pelts. Anyways, I also loaded up 2 loads with 180g btips and Retumbo. I loaded up 99g and 100g. I shot them at 300 yards. The 99g load gave me a 4 inch group and was scooting along at 3450fps. The 100g load was down to 3 inch at 3480fps. I'm thinking I'm gonna try 101g. Seems to get a little tighter with a little more powder. I'm not really seeing any signs of pressure. Probly break 3500fps. Thats 30-378 weatherby territory!!!
Be very careful. I think that is one tough case on the 300 rum and it's very possilbe to get some really big pressure without seeing it. I've seen published data over at accuratereloading.com where a very experienced reloader pushed 165's to over 3700 fps without "pressure signs". Running thos loads past quickload (which I admit isn't always perfect) showed 88,000psi.
Let me save you a lot of trouble. Don't shoot coyotes with FMJ bullets. The pencil in and pencil out and the coyote runs away. If you insist on trying, either shoot the coyote in the head, or take a trail hound with you. FMJ don't leave a blood trail to follow.
If I can kill that coyote from here, Will you walk out to get him?
Location: The rifle range, or archery range or behind the computer in Alaska
Re: 300 RUM+180g btip+Retumbo
I drove a 180 ACCUBOND at 3709 out of the 300 RUM. It wasnt pretty. It busted my sako style extractor and the reducing ring around the rim of the bolt.
Indeed, be carefull. Personaly I wouldnt drive the 180 past 3300-3350 MAX!!! With a 26-27" pipe anyway.
Long range shooting is a process that ends with a result. Once you start to focus on the result (how bad your last shot was, how big the group is going to be, what your buck will score, what your match score is, what place you are in...) then you loose the capacity to focus on the process.
It doesn't seem to bad. Bolt lift is not any worse, on the can of Retumbo, it simply states that 100.5g is a MAX load. With velocity of 3300. My rounds are seated to 3.690" Maybe that has a little to do with it?? I use a crony chronograph, I know its not the best, but it has seemed to work well for me. I was shooting my swift today along with it and it was giving me my expected velocities of 3900 with 38g of IMR-4064 and 55g FMJ. I am going to try 101g tomorrow and see if I can get the group down to 2 inches or so, if not, I probly wont use that powder. I have always used H-1000 in my RUM, but I had some extra Retumbo laying around from when I loaded up my 210g VLD's. Retumbo seems to shoot better when loaded pretty hot out of my rifle, at least with the 2 bullets I've tried. I dont have quick load, so I'm not sure what kinda pressures I'm running at. My primers dont look bad either. I know your all looking out for me.
Remington 25 -
I second everyone's cautions.... Sierra 5th Edition lists 97.3 gr. MAX... 3,250 FPS out of a 26" barreled Savage.
Also, you probably already know this, but moly can affect pressure, are you shooting coated bullets? It tends to reduce pressure. Another thing - a lot of my BR buddies wince when I start talking about pressure signs, seems that a common opinion is that if you are shooting a custom gun (with a polished / well cut chamber) bolts don't get sticky. Depending on the primer your using, that may not show signs either... Federal usually do, Winchester are tougher, IMHO.
The only consensus I got from my buddies on pressure signs were shiny spots, shiny extractor marks on the brass case heads. BUT, if you have gotten here, you are way in (up) to far, back down a couple percent of load. Trying to remember at what PSI brass flows.... I want to say 85K Psi, not for sure.