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Sightron Question for Nate Haler

 
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  #1  
Old 03-12-2002, 09:45 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 14
Sightron Question for Nate Haler

Hi Nate:

I'm posing this question to you, as you had previously posted concerning Sightron scopes. However, if anyone else out there wants to throw in their "two cents worth," you are welcome.

I'm new to the long range shooting/hunting arena, and I want to "gear up" with my 7mm Rem Mag. I am going to start out gradually, hoping to become a proficient shot to say, 500 yards or so.

I have read with interest and envy the posts about high end Leupold, Nightforce, US Optics, etc. scopes, but with me having two young kids and a tight budget, they are way beyond the realm of possibility for me right now.

That being said, I am really interested in a Sightron scope, and have found a good deal on a 4x16 target model. However, it does not have the Mil Dot(it has the fine dot crosshair). My question is, do I need a scope w/Mil Dot? Though I don't know how to use one, I certainly could learn, if it would be advantageous. Based on what I have read here, I presume the alternative method without a Mil Dot would be to determine range, then using the turrets, "click up" for the appropriate distance and shot.

Sorry this question seems to be in such a roundabout way, but basically, I want to know if I should spend more money for the Mil Dot feature, and is it worth it. Any other relevant advice concerning scopes for longer range application would be appreciated.

Thanks for your time,
Jim
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  #2  
Old 03-12-2002, 10:28 AM
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Re: Sightron Question for Nate Haler

cheaper than dirt has the sightron tactical mil-dot #SCP-031 3-12x42 for $249.97 & the #SCP-032 4-16x42 for $329.97 www.CheaperThanDirt.com
1/800/421/8047
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  #3  
Old 03-13-2002, 12:04 AM
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Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 256
Re: Sightron Question for Nate Haler

Jim-
There are 3 ways to shoot long distance and account for the drop. The first (and worst by far) is to actually hold over the target which is just guessing and not very effective beyond 3 or 400 yards. Second, using a mil-dot type reticle which does the hold over for you. Last, and best in my opinion, is to range the target before shooting and adjust the scope so that you aim right on. This method is preferred by many long range hunters. What this requires is a range finder and scope that has very repeatable adjustments with external knobs.
You then make a drop chart using ballistic programs and then actually firng at each range to check them.
I did some research on Sightron scopes and my sole concern was how well they repeated. ALL of my findings were that they did repeat as well as any scope out there. For this type of shooting, Sightron is a great scope and very affordable, especially when compared to the other high end scopes you mentioned. Your 7mm mag would be more than enough for the 500 yards you stated as your goal.
Good shooting
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  #4  
Old 03-13-2002, 12:15 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 14
Re: Sightron Question for Nate Haler

PrimeTime:

Thanks for the response. Can you tell me then, what does a "drop chart" contain? Would it simply tell you at a given distance, say 400 yards, you turn your scope X number of clicks up? Would that typically be based on sighting in dead on at 100 yards? If so, in my 400 yard example above, would you turn it up the number of clicks needed to account for 300 yards more (the 400 distance minus the 100 you would be dead on at)? Would your drop chart be broken down into say, 50 yard increments?

A further Sightron question--would you then not recommend getting a Mil Dot model, or should I get one, allowing me that option if I would later decide to try it?

Thanks,
Jim
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  #5  
Old 03-13-2002, 08:21 PM
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Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 256
Re: Sightron Question for Nate Haler

Jim-
A drop chart is based with a 100 yard zero. You can do it in increments of 50 yards. Just sight dead on at 100 and then set the external knob on "0". You can then run a ballistic program or just shoot at varying distances using a large target area and actually measure the real life drop.
Let's say at 500 yards, your drop is 50 inches. You divide 50 inches by 5 (since 500 is obviously 5 sets of 100 yards) and set your elevation at 10 inches. If the distance is 300 yards and the drop is 12 inches, divide 12 by 3 and turn the scope up 4 inches. At 1,000, with a drop of 250 inches, divide 250 by 10. It's based on the 100 yard zero. I hope that is not too confusing but once you do it a few tomes, it's pretty simple. All you need to know is the BC of the bullet and the velocity at which you are shooting it. Then enter that info into a ballistic program (like JBM ballistics which is free and online) and it will give you the drop in inches at any yardage up to 2000 yards. I then do the division to get the actual scope inches I would need to be dead on at each yardage. Write it down a small piece of paper and take with you to the range. Check the chart, adjust scope and see how close you come. You may have to make minor adjustments but it should get you very close.
I don't like the mil-dot but that is just my opinion. A simple fine duplex fits my needs and works well.
The Sightron would work well for you and the weaver's are actually very repeateable as well. I just bought a Weaver Grand Slam 6-20 and it tracks extremely accurately. It cost $309. Hope this helps, maybe someone can explain the drop/inches/adjustment method better but that's how I do it.
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