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Rings and bases for $100

 
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  #29  
Old 07-25-2013, 03:34 PM
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Re: Rings and bases for $100

Quote:
Originally Posted by bruce_ventura View Post
Unless the fit is really bad, we're only talking about gaps under the rail of ~10 or maybe 20 mils - not enough to make a significant height difference. If you remove material from the rear you are tilting the back of the rail down, which decreases elevation adjustment range. I would not remove any material from the base.

There is no need to hold the base rigid while the epoxy sets. The process I use works very well - even for poorly fitting bases. I prep the receiver in the normal way. I mask around the base area to prevent an epoxy mess. Then I apply clear wax to the receiver and silicone spray to the screw holes.

I scuff up the bottom of the base using emery cloth and then clean it with lacquer thinner. I apply JB Weld sparingly to the base mounting surfaces. Less is better. I leave a gap around the holes. I figure I can always repeat the process if there are large voids (rarely happens).

I position the base on the receiver, apply silicone to the screws and insert them. At this point I usually check alignment of the base to the barrel using an 18" steel ruler.

Here is the important part. The purpose of bedding is to maximize surface contact and minimize stress in the base. I gently tighten the base screws just enough to squeeze epoxy out of the gap and get the high points on the base to contact the receiver. "Gently" means less than 3 in-lbs of torque.

I go back and forth between screws, gently tightening each screw until I'm convinced the base is contacting the receiver somewhere on the front and back. Then I back off each screw 1/8 -1/4 turn to insure there is no stress in the base. This is critical. Some folks tighten the base screws at this point, which imparts stress and usually bends the base. Keeping the screws a bit loose during epoxy set allows the epoxy the fill the gaps while the base has no stress. Then I clean up excess epoxy using Q-tips.

I let the epoxy set overnight, pry it loose the next day, clean up the receiver, and remove excess epoxy from the corners of the base using a razor blade. Then I install the base, apply blue thread locker to the screws and torque the screws properly (20 in-lbs for #6 screws).

The bedding process takes about an hour. Works great every time.
Id think if you checked you would find the receiver to be "true" and the RAIL you intend on installing top be bent or somehow twisted or ?? so that it doesnt match up just perfectly. And a mismatch of .010 to .020 IS a big screwup. The contour is cut and checked on machinery that wont let it vary that much....but then again this goes hand in hand with the reciever holes not being aligned...( Yeah...right!)

Individual bases are another story!
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  #30  
Old 07-25-2013, 04:53 PM
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Re: Rings and bases for $100

After going with the rail setup, I've never even thought about going back to Leupold rings and bases (other than their PRW rings for my Marlin 917 .17HMR).
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"I'm just a peckerwood who lives in the hills with too many guns..." - Bob Lee Swagger

"Give me a minute...I'm good. Give me an hour...I'm great. Give me 6 months...And I'm unbeatable." - Col. Hannibal Smith

Ignore everything I say, because I have a reading comprehension and memory problem...

Quote:
Originally Posted by WildRose View Post
The 284 is to the STW what a tricycle is to a Ninja.
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  #31  
Old 07-25-2013, 06:49 PM
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Re: Rings and bases for $100

Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunner2005 View Post
After going with the rail setup, I've never even thought about going back to Leupold rings and bases (other than their PRW rings for my Marlin 917 .17HMR).

Ive been using the Leupold QD rings ( with that flip over lever) on EGW rails for almost 1 1/2 years now. Ive also been following EGW's rule on that..."If you arent shooting more than 600 yards...you dont even need a rail"!!....but i get their 15 MOA model as my mount anyway.....
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  #32  
Old 07-25-2013, 07:21 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
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Re: Rings and bases for $100

Quote:
Originally Posted by MudRunner2005 View Post
I have used "Kentucky Torquage" all my life. I have made mistakes, but 99.9% of the time, everything is good to go.

Recently purchased a Wheeler FAT Wrench, and have since been using it. Working great so far.

For $50.00...I highly recommend it.


To err is human. Only the Lord and Obama make no mistakes.

I'm sure we all have (in the past), I know I did but it's not the right way. I have a Wheeler too. Nice tool. I also have an inch pound Snap-On dial wrench. Also a nice tool but expensive like everything Snap-On. The Wheeler is as good as for our intent.
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  #33  
Old 07-25-2013, 09:28 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2013
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Re: Rings and bases for $100

I still didn't get out my feeler gauges but if the rear 2 screws are tightened and the front ones omitted ther is a gap under the front section that is by my eye between .010 and .020 inch. This is not a tapering gap either, mind you, it is parallel. If the amount of the gap wre precisely removed from the rear section where it contacts the reciever it would not need any bedding to fit properly and it would not be canted one way or the other. The rail is supposed to be a 20 moa. If I were to use the bedding methods described here I would wind up with 30 or 40 moa and/or the rail being pulled into a slight S shape. I did tighten it down just to see what it would do to the rings. It was some serious whack ado. Don't worry it don't hurt anything as soon as the front 2 screws were loosened it sprung right back straight but if I hadn't payed attention and decided to lap the rings instead of fix the base it would have defeated the whole purpose of a picatinny rail and being able to move the scope fore and aft or even easily switch between guns and have everything line up just right. With the rail tightened down it doesn't even line up as well as the two piece weaver bases I have on another gun. That's sad EGW. I could understand having to rework a $10 base but when u spend $65 the manufacture should at least warn u it may not fit properly if there is that big of issue with that brand of receiver.
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  #34  
Old 07-26-2013, 07:55 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Alabama
Posts: 5,408
Re: Rings and bases for $100

Quote:
Originally Posted by SidecarFlip View Post
To err is human. Only the Lord and Obama make no mistakes.

I'm sure we all have (in the past), I know I did but it's not the right way. I have a Wheeler too. Nice tool. I also have an inch pound Snap-On dial wrench. Also a nice tool but expensive like everything Snap-On. The Wheeler is as good as for our intent.
Yeah, the Snap-On and MAC units are nice, but as you said, a bit pricey for just mounting up scopes and torquing action screws.
__________________
"I'm just a peckerwood who lives in the hills with too many guns..." - Bob Lee Swagger

"Give me a minute...I'm good. Give me an hour...I'm great. Give me 6 months...And I'm unbeatable." - Col. Hannibal Smith

Ignore everything I say, because I have a reading comprehension and memory problem...

Quote:
Originally Posted by WildRose View Post
The 284 is to the STW what a tricycle is to a Ninja.
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  #35  
Old 07-26-2013, 08:37 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 1,865
Re: Rings and bases for $100

Quote:
Originally Posted by Welderboy250 View Post
I still didn't get out my feeler gauges but if the rear 2 screws are tightened and the front ones omitted ther is a gap under the front section that is by my eye between .010 and .020 inch. This is not a tapering gap either, mind you, it is parallel. If the amount of the gap wre precisely removed from the rear section where it contacts the reciever it would not need any bedding to fit properly and it would not be canted one way or the other. The rail is supposed to be a 20 moa. If I were to use the bedding methods described here I would wind up with 30 or 40 moa and/or the rail being pulled into a slight S shape. I did tighten it down just to see what it would do to the rings. It was some serious whack ado. Don't worry it don't hurt anything as soon as the front 2 screws were loosened it sprung right back straight but if I hadn't payed attention and decided to lap the rings instead of fix the base it would have defeated the whole purpose of a picatinny rail and being able to move the scope fore and aft or even easily switch between guns and have everything line up just right. With the rail tightened down it doesn't even line up as well as the two piece weaver bases I have on another gun. That's sad EGW. I could understand having to rework a $10 base but when u spend $65 the manufacture should at least warn u it may not fit properly if there is that big of issue with that brand of receiver.

What reciever were you trying to mount the EGW rail onto??
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