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question for Ian M

 
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  #1  
Old 12-21-2001, 03:56 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: casstown oh.
Posts: 9
question for Ian M

After reading your reply about the Horus reticle, I looked them up on their website and a few questions came to mind.
#1. Are all those lines easy to read?
#2. On the ultra longrange it needs tapered bases, can you get a zero at 100 yards?
#3. I'm guessing with all the lines this etched glass and not wires, correct? [img]images/icons/confused.gif[/img]
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Old 12-21-2001, 05:57 PM
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Sask. Canada
Posts: 2,410
Re: question for Ian M

Dave,
Glad to try to answer your questions.
#1. Are all those lines easy to read?
Fact is when a shooter first looks through the scope he is likely to say "NO WAY!", just too cluttered. In fact the "maze" of lines are superb constant aiming reference points, but they must be mastered by repetitious use and note-keeping. The system is not something that you pick up and instantly put to maximum use, you have to work at it, read the literature (and there is lots of accompanying info), keep good shooting data.

Although it sounds like a lot I find the smaller 11 (actually numbered to 10) bar reticle pretty easy to use. Compared to mil-dots or duplex reticles there are a lot of lines in your field of view but the constant aiming points are very nice to use for hold-offs.

#2. On the ultra longrange it needs tapered bases, can you get a zero at 100 yards?
I used a Badger base, do not recall any problem when we set up a heavy .308 for testing. Fact is that I have used the 10 bar more than the longrange as it seems to be easier to work with, I like the simpler field of view.

Remember that these scopes are first reticle plane models, the reticle increases with the size of the object as you crank the power up. This enables the reference points to always be functional as opposed to a reticle that does not vary with the apparent size of the object (second plane system as is more popular in the U.S.)

#3. I'm guessing with all the lines this etched glass and not wires, correct?
I agree that they are most likely etched, the longrange system actually has two sets of bars, a second set in the upper left quadrant - don't know how you could have them floating as they are, unless they are etched.

Typically we will have the spotter using a data sheet or instruction page with the same reticle pattern, if our data says "Bar X for 700 yards" he will tell the shooter to go to that bar and also which tick mark to use for a wind hold-off.

This is very different than cranking in the elevation and windage and using a zero hold - whatever turns your crank.
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Old 12-21-2001, 10:25 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: casstown oh.
Posts: 9
Re: question for Ian M

Thank You
I think I will try one of these if I can find one, I looked on Schimdt and Bender website but did'nt see anything mentioned about the Horus reticle. There is also something about Snipers Paradise and the Horus getting together on a project together and being out around the end of Janurary.
or something to that effect.

Have a happy holiday
Dave Matheny
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  #4  
Old 12-22-2001, 12:27 AM
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Sask. Canada
Posts: 2,410
Re: question for Ian M

Dave,
I have been fortunate to shoot most of the current LR reticles and the choice comes down to the following as I see it:
1. Mil-dots - which requires a course or serious instruction to master. They are great for range estimation so that you can do "come-ups" and always hold on your intended point of impact. In a simpler use they can be used as reference points for hold-offs also. Check out the CD SHOOTERREADY for instruction.
2. Other constant aiming point reference reticles - this ranges from circles to place on the critter to boxes to brackets which are intended to give you an idea of how far away the target is, then a series of range-bars for hold-offs (elevation and windage). The Horus falls into this category. Perhaps the best use is in conjunction with a laser rangefinder as I have found that some of the circles/boxes etc. are incorrectly sized when placed on the chest of live deer.
3. Custom designed reticle by Premiere in which dots or bars are placed to match the down-range trajectory of your particular cartridge and rifle. Premiere does an incredible job creating exactly what you need, they only work on Leupold I believe.
4. Cam-operated elevation adjustments - as in the M3 Leupold series of LR scopes - you simply turn the elevation dial to a yardage number (200, 300, 400 etc.) and hopefully the correct come-up is dialed for a hit with your ammo and rifle combination. There are various cams available to match the trajectories of certain cartridge/bullet combos, mostly military stuff. There is also an external cam system that physically moves one end of the scope (the eyepiece) as you change power to match the size of an object - this is called the Leatherwood system.
5. The good old Duplex which usually has a defined spacing between the tip of each post and the crosshair (therefore between each post also) which can be used to guestimate how far away a critter is and also provides one hold-off point (the top of the post).

The variables are accuracy and speed of use - naturally we can become more proficient with any reticle if we use it a lot.

Which is best? Perhaps the fact that the U.S. Army and Marines use Mil-dots is an indicator. Depends on whether you wish to use a center hold or a hold-off, or mix and match as the hunting situation demands.

I provided a contact for the Horus in a previous post if you want to get more info on availability. Sorry for the long post.
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