One one-thousandth of an inch at the rifle will make about a 1 inch difference at 100 yards.
With tolerance accumulations of barrel to receiver... scope base to receiver, scope rings to receiver, and scope tube fit to rings... we could come up with ten to twenty inches of error up/down or right/left at 100 yards. A crude bore sighting can get you that close or closer...
Ring height and barrel length will also come into play here.
Bullet velocity has a fair bit to do with 100 yard zero too, of course.
Even the position of the scope in the rings sitting on a 20 MOA base will affect zero point...
All this is to say that even if you used the cartridge that Premier apparently told you that they zeroed this scope at 100 yards with... and even if you used a 20 MOA base, it would still be a crap shoot as to whether you'd be on an 8 x 11 sheet of paper at 100 yards when you put that scope in your rings on your rifle.
When I mounted my friend's Leupold Mk4 on his 338LM, I bore sighted the rifle at 100 yards on a 20" square target. I checked and doubled checked until I was satisfied. The first shot (he was using 5 dollar per shot Hornady Match factory ammo) landed 2 inches away from target center.
I haven't had any issues getting on paper with one or two shots with a good bore sight at 100 yards.
If I'm using a rifle that can't be bore sighted (semi-auto or lever gun, for instance) I center the scope's reticle in its travel range (both windage and elevation) and fire a shot at 25 yards, make corrections for that range, then fire a second shot... if you're on at 25 yards, you'll easily be on a 20" square at 100 yards... fire the 3rd shot at 100, then correct, and confirm 100 yard zero with a 4th shot. This works for me.