Re: Any responses, please?
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Regarding my previous post I was hoping for some response from Dave and Catshooter
Hey guys! I read your string of posts and found them quite informative as I am currently setting up my new Leo Vari-XIII 3.5-10x40 LR M3. I used Catshooters instructions for setting up the scope and ran into an issue when trying to zero the AO side knob. I focused in on an object at aprox 400M (the farthest I could conveniently find without obstruction) and played with the AO knob as Catshooter instructed. I started at infinity and worked my way back until I was parallax free. I was concerned that this point was at the middle dot on the adjustment knob so I went thru the process again starting back at infinity. The result was the same so I loosened the screws and reset the knob so infinity lined up with the hash mark. Now the knob bottoms out at the low magnification end around the second dot and consequently turns way past the infinity mark on the top end. I called Leupold to ask their feedback and the WOMAN who answered the tech line basically said that the knob is set at the factory and not meant to be adjusted. I obviously mentioned that there is adjustment screws on the knob which usually means they are there to enable adjustment but she stuck to her limited insight. I knew I was not getting anywhere so I came back here to ask the gurus for their guidance. Please advise. Thanks!
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I appologize for not getting back to answer this - I moved in 2003 and the move was a nightmare (took 8 months to move all the "stuff"), but the good part is now I have a poured concrete gunsafe that has 10' x 20' floor space with 10 foot high walls, and the walls are covered with pegboard (and covered with guns [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] ).
And since then I have been fighting a custody thing in court - so I haven't been on the web very much.
As to the lady at Leupold saying that they are set at the factory - BS. The people on the customer phones have a FAQ sheet in front of them with canned answers. They don't understand what or how scopes work. Since the "side focus" dials have no graduations, there is nothing they can set - it's an approxmation and you can do better. Just follow the instructions above. Set the dial at infinity (using an infinity subject). It doesn't have to be a real target - it can be a mountain ridge or whatever. When properly set, it will work fine - you can put a sticky lable arouind the knob and mark the closer ranges if you like, then, if you use a laser, you can set the range (start from infinity) correct your elevation, and shoot.
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Reticules in the first image plane also appear to move off center as elevation and windage adjustments are made. This happens 'cause the back of the erector tube is fixed and the front points to a different place in that first image. The only way to fix this is to anchor the erector tube's front end at the first image plane then move the adjustment turret back closer to the eyepiece. Which wouldn't be a bad idea 'cause the adjustments would be easier to reach.
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Not so... there are many first focal plane reticles still made and the reticle always stays in the center of the scope - what you are talking about was back in the '40s and '50's, the elevation/windage dials moved the reticle itself, and no optics were moved, so the reticle moved off center in the field, sometimes way off to one side or corner... but no one has made scopes like that in 50 years - now, in first focal plane scope, the optics are used to move the image, and the reticle ALWAYS stays centered.
Here Kitty, kitty, kitty...
Here, kitty kitty kitty.
LRH member #23